Check out our Top 10 Tips for Baruntse Peak. I have climbed Everest, Mera Peak 6 and Baruntse Peak and am happy to help you understand the challenges on this mountain. Drop me an email to learn more. The altitude and remote nature of this climb means not many people venture to this remote valley in Nepal. Baruntse is worth the adventure, with some of the best Himalayan Mountain viewing you could ever experience. Check out our REVIEWS.
Respect the Mountains
If you want to climb Baruntse Peak and stand high in the Himalaya’s at 7,162m/ 23,497 feet, then you need to give this mountain the respect it deserves. This means you need to come with excellent physical preparation and mountaineering skills to match.
We are a world leader in offering quality peak climbs in Nepal and our award-winning team are ready to serve you. We have developed and service and system to give you the best chance at the summit.
Tips for Climbing Baruntse Peak
These are our Top 10 Tips for Baruntse Peak, but for all our tips and advice GET IN TOUCH and learn more about our Mera and Baruntse Peak service.
We have high altitude climbing porters so you only have to carry your own personal gear needed each day. Our team will will porter your duffel bag up to High Camp on Mera and Camp 2 on Baruntse Peak.
Most importantly, we fix our own ropes on the mountain, giving you the best possible safety and chance of making it to the summit of Baruntse Peak. Interested in our Mera and Baruntse Peak itinerary?. Our Award Winning team are available 5 days a week to help you get the right information.
Top Tips for climbing Mera Peak
We have added some useful links below that will aid in your planning and preparation for your trek and climb of Mera and Baruntse peaks. We have successfully led hundreds of people through these majestic mountains and look forward to assisting you.
The following tips and links will aid in your preparation for the trip as well! And if you want to learn more, don’t hesitate to EMAIL US and find out everything you need for your specific expedition.
1). Make Sure you Have the Right Training
Our Mera and Baruntse peaks expedition is 32 days long. This trip has it all, a lot of stairs, steep challenging terrain and thousands of feet of ascent and descent throughout the trip. The route has mixed scrambling, steep rocky scree, glacier crossings with crevasses, ladder crossing and a steep Head-Wall to the west col.
Baruntse is a very strenuous ascent and descent, and that is after you have just climbed Mera peak which is also strenuous undertaking.
The ultimate goal should be to build up to Multi-day hiking, building from 3 – 6+ hours, cover up to 1,300m/ 4,265 feet of ascent with weighted backpack, along with training 4 to 5 times a week in the gym is essential for safety and success. You also need to be to be doing stability and weight training. Your physical preparation will ultimately be the difference in success or failure.
Don’t forget training for the downhill. You also need to be competent in abseiling using a figure of 8, moving between fixed lines on a 60 degree angle. This is really important.
2). Buy your own Mountaineering Boots and Gear Early
If you have ever worn mountaineering boots before, then you will understand what I mean here! Double Mountaineering boots are extremely rigid and heavier than your normal trekking boots, making them a lot more difficult to walk in. It is essential that you have worn-in your boots before you go, and also that you pick the correct boots. Your feet are so very important to your success on Mera and Baruntse Peaks, and you need to look after your feet at all times in the Himalaya’s.
Baruntse peak base camp is 80 miles from a road, you are in a wilderness area and need to be fully prepared with the right boots. This is not the place for you to test out your mountaineering boots. Likewise, we strongly advice against renting mountaineering boots. Having the wrong boots or renting boots could ruin your feet and your trip.
3). Complete a Fixed line Training Course
We highly recommend taking a specific technical training course. We run specific training courses for Baruntse Peak in Colorado and Scotland. It is a very important part of your training before leaving for Baruntse Peak. Being able to abseil/ rappel using a figure of 8, using crampons, a jumar (ascender) and being comfortable in a harness and using ropes can make all the difference in feeling confident in your Baruntse Peak ascent and descent. We also recommend crossing ladders with crampons in your training.
Check out our winter courses in Scotland and get in touch for further information for our courses in Colorado. We can help you fully prepare for your climb on Island Peak.
VERY IMPORTANT: You need to come proficient in using a harness, figure of 8, using a Jumar device and abseiling.
4). Have the Right Clothing and Gear
With temperature ranging from + 20c to – 20c (68F to -4F), you need to come prepared. Once you arrive at Mera Peak Peak Base Camp, there are no lodges until you reach Chuckung in the Everest region. Therefore, you will be sleeping in tents, out in the elements. Having the right gear can be the difference in a successful and unsuccessful trip.
One of the essential pieces of gear will be a high quality down Parka, Expedition gloves and -20 Celsius down sleeping bag. You will need to wear this down Parka in the mornings and evenings above 16,000 feet, as well as during your summit attempt.
Wearing high quality base layers alongside a proper layering system is another way to ensure you are managing your body temperature. We like to recommend Merino Wool as a great option for base layers, however they can be quite expensive, so if you are not looking to spend that much on your layers, you could also look at synthetic pieces. You should stay away from anything cotton against your skin. Cotton will be very difficult to dry and it will also not help with regulating your body temperatures.
The most important items for Baruntse Peak will be your mountaineering boots and gloves. Keeping your hands and feet warm is extremely important. CLICK HERE and watch our Mera Peak packing video. If you sign up to one of our trips we send you a 40 page dossier with itemized kit list.
5). Manage your Safety Throughout the Trip
The trail to Mera Peak, the Amphulaptsa pass and Baruntse Peak comes with some hazards. You need to be aware of these prior to making this journey. Our guides will lead you safely through the trail but always be aware of landslide regions, drop offs, people, yaks, mules and porters.
Always stay together as a group, listen to the guides and always stay on the mountain side of the trail when passing or being passed, and constantly be aware of your surroundings. Always wear a helmet when asked and above Base camps on Mera and Baruntse peaks. You need to take personal responsibility for your own safety and be mindful of your surroundings and work as a team.
6). Have Qualified Climbing Guides
Unfortunately, there are a lot of local guiding companies out there that offering Mera and Baruntse Peak climbs who are not qualified to do so. Many companies out there will promise you the world, however they outsource their services to guides. These guides have limited climbing experience and will not have the ability to fix ropes or manage clients at high altitude.
You need to make sure you have done your research on the company you will be using. You should have a professional climbing Sherpa who can fix ropes, manage training and bring you safely up and down these peaks.
We bring our own ropes up the mountain and fix them each trip for your safety. Therefore, we do not use the ropes that are already fixed to the mountain.
7). Have the Right Acclimatization Schedule
When you are going above the danger zone and lower realm of the death zone above 5,500m/ 18,044 feet to 7,162m/ 23,497 feet, you need the right acclimatization schedule. Our itinerary is designed with the maximum acclimatization.
We have a great trek into Khare 4,950m/ 16,240 feet where we spend 3 nights. With an additional 2 nights at Mera Peak Base Camp at 5,200m/ 17,060 feet. Additionally, we also have one night at Mera Peak High Camp at 5,800m/ 19,029 feet before dropping down to Kongme Dingma 4,800m/ 15,748 feet.
Altitude sickness is real, and going to altitude needs to be respected and not forced. We take our time hiking slowly for optimal acclimatize. We set a minimum pace to relax on this long expedition. Our approach to acclimatization will help you to achieve your goal of climbing Mera and Baruntse Peaks. Also, you will enjoy a safer and more enjoyable experience. CONTACT US for more information.
8). Have Previous Altitude Experience
There is a massive investment that you have made to do Mera and Barunste Peaks. You have spent the money, time, and preparation to go all the way to Nepal and climb. Everyone acclimatizes differently, therefore, knowing how you adapt at altitude helps you in your understanding and preparation for this climb.
Having made numerous treks and possible climbs at altitude will help you in your preparation for this challenging expedition. How do you know what it is going to be like at 5,000m/ 16,404 feet and above, with 50% less oxygen, if you have never been at this elevation before? Be responsible and take the right path to 6,000m/ 20,000 feet peaks.
9). Know Your Knots
When you are climbing Mera and Baruntse Peaks, you will need to know how to tie different climbing knots. The figure of eight, overhand knot, Alpine butterfly and Italian Hitch knots will be used in the training and preparation for Mera and Baruntse peaks.
Therefore, it is best if you know these and have practiced these knots prior to joining an expedition. We will have ropes with us on the trek in, and we will help you become more proficient on the route to Baruntse Peak.
10). Be Proficient in Rappelling with a Figure of 8
As you will see in this video, you have to abseil down the Amphulaptsa pass and steep sections high on Baruntse Peak. You will be in control of the rope as you abseil down. Therefore, being comfortable abseiling prior to the start of the trip will be essential.
We recommend doing an outdoor course before the trip. This should include learning how to move from one rope to another on steep terrain, using a figure of 8 device. You should also be comfortable with exposure and big drop offs. Therefore, finding a local climbing wall and practice using a harness and abseiling from high, which will help build confidence and experience for when you need it high on Baruntse Peak and the Amphulaptsa pass.
Get in Touch Today
We hope you enjoyed reading our Top 10 tips for Baruntse Peak. The next step should be to contact us and get the best information available. Ian has climbed Everest, Island peak 25 times, Mera Peak 6 times and Baruntse Peak over the past 20 years. We have a wealth of experience in the Himalaya’s and happy to help you get the information you need to be safe and successful.
Additional Information on Baruntse Peak
1). Best Time to Climb: The Optimal climbing seasons are Spring (March-May) and Autumn (September-November).
2). Climbing Experience: You should have previous high-altitude climbing experience 10,000 feet to 20,000 feet is crucial to understand how you personally perform at high altitude.
3). Acclimatization is everything: We have designed our itinerary with safety and acclimatization in mind. Firstly we lead you slowly off the beaten path to Khare and Mera Peak Base Camp. Secondly, we have 14 nights at altitude before attempting Mera Peak and moving to Baruntse.
4). Hydration and Nutrition: Drinking 4-5 liters of water daily for proper hydration and acclimatization is critical on a trip like this.
5). Trip Insurance and Helicopter Evacuation: We require that everyone has helicopter evacuation cover. It is also work considering medical cover and trip cancellation if you needed to cancel for any reason. It is essential to have trip insurance for unforeseen incidents.