Climb Island peak with us and give yourself the best chance at success. Island peak is becoming more dangerous year on year.  I am just back from my 15th summit of Island peak and I was shocked at the lack of safety on the mountain. We had 100% success on our Island peak climbs this season. We achieve this with excellent acclimatization from start to finish, FIX OUR OWN ROPES for each climb, use high camp, do 2/3 training session including ladder training in Chuckung. Check out our climbs in 2019 or 2020.

Climb Island Peak

I witnessed some shocking safety procedures by some local trekking companies. I spoke to a lot of people coming past us on the route to the summit, all rushing and not pacing themselves. They were coming straight from base camp.  They had no ropes and no idea why they would need them. I witnessed people using Jumar’s to descend the mountain (Jumar’s are only meant for ascent), people using the already dangerous fixed ropes to pull themselves up the mountain. 18 people on one anchor point.


If you are looking to climb Island peak, here are some things you need to make your team has in order to make a safe and successful ascent of Island peak.  

1). Make sure you have a fully qualified climbing guide and climbing Sherpa who can fix ropes and manage your safety correctly.
2). Make sure your team have their own private ropes to fix high on Island peak.
3). Make sure you have two / three night acclimatizing in Island Peak Base Camp and Island peak high camp.
4). Make sure your team has a high camp set at 5,500m/ 18,000 feet for your ascent on the summit
5). Make sure you have adequate training with all equipment before leaving Island peak base camp
6). Make sure your team has 250m of private fixed rope for climbing safely and a main rope for glacier travel.
7). Make sure you have 1:2/3 ratio of guides to clients
8). Make sure you have mountaineering experience
9). Make sure you have previous altitude experience
10). Make sure you don’t use the already attached fixed lines. I witness anchors coming our all the time.
11). Make sure you are proficient at abseiling and know your knots.
climb island peak  climb Island peak

Climb Island Peak

I witnessed some serious neglect from other teams. The climbers had no idea the risks they were taking climbing on the fixed lines which have been there from the previous season. Some of our team members met a Canadian climber who fell on the head wall because the fixed ropes and anchor came out of the mountain. I have witnessed broken legs, arms and people falling into the gully’s and usually see so many people turn around because they haven’t done the training or come with the right skill set for the climb.

Climb Island Peak

The anchors looked dodgy to me and climbing at 50/60 degrees angles on ropes you have no idea who fixed them is reckless, dangerous and not a safe way to climb. The ice is melting fast and there is more rock fall than I would like. I was at the bottom of the head wall in October twice this season and both times we were narrowly missed by rock fall.

Climb Island Peak

DON’T SIGN UP TO AN ISLAND PEAK CLIMB WITH A TEAM WHO DO NOT HAVE THE ABOVE SAFETY AND SYSTEMS IN PLACE. Island peak is not a trekking peak and requires a lot more respect from people looking to climb and stand at 20,305 feet. CLICK HERE for our upcoming trips. Climb Island peak with us and give yourself the best chance at success.

2 thoughts on “CLIMB ISLAND PEAK

  1. Hi, i´m from mexico and i don’t have any experience in climbing and i want to do the island peak april next year, i will try this year nevado de toluca and iztaccihuatl, do you think is fine with this preparation? and i want to know the prices my date that matches excellent for me and my wife is april 6 to 26, another question do you give equipment for climbing?
    Thank you for your attention

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