I have climbed Aconcagua over ten times and I can tell you the summit day on Aconcagua is not easy. Carrying heavy loads from camp to camp at high and extreme altitude can take it’s toll on your body and then you have to take on the summit challenge. Contact us and learn more about climbing Aconcagua and check out our upcoming trips.
Maximizing Your Summit Success on Aconcagua: Key Tips for the Final Push
After months of intense physical preparation, the ultimate challenge of summiting Aconcagua comes down to a crucial 12-hour push. Typically, climbers spend 8 hours reaching the summit and another 4 hours returning to Camp Colera.
Patience, relaxation, and focus are essential during each phase of the climb. Remember, a slow and steady pace increases your chances of successfully reaching the top of Aconcagua. Follow these tips to enhance your summit success on south America’s highest peak.
What Time do we Start Summit Day at on Aconcagua
Summit day on Aconcagua typically begins at 3:00 or 3:30 AM. Climbers wake up, start hydrating, get dressed and organized. Breakfast will be prepared by the guides, who also boil water for you to carry on the summit attempt. We usually depart camp at 5:00am.
How Long Does it Take to Reach the Summit
It should take you 8 hours to reach the summit of Aconcagua from Camp Colera. We have had some groups make it in less time, but it is important to pace yourself. You will need all your energy for the descent.
We usually depart camp at 5:00am, hiking the North Ridge to Independencia, a small, broken wooden hut situated at approximately 21,400 feet. This first leg of the journey takes around 2 hours and 30 minutes.
From Independencia, we hike another 30 minutes to the windy traverse the West Face past the “Finger” and continue to the “Cave,” a journey that about 2 hours 30 minutes. It should take 5 hours to reach Cave from Camp Colera.
After a rest at the Cave, we tackle the steepest part of the ascent—the Canaleta. The Canaleta is an 800-foot couloir leading to the summit ridge. The final stretch from the Cave to the summit can take an additional 2 hours and 30 minutes.
Plan your climb with these timings and key points in mind to maximize your summit success on Aconcagua.
How Long is the Summit Descent on Aconcagua
Descending Aconcagua typically takes between 3 hours and 30 minutes to 4 hours. It’s crucial to manage every step carefully, especially while navigating through the Canaleta and across the traverse. Move slowly and steadily down the mountain.
Avoid using earphones in this section and stay together as a group, as the weather can change rapidly. Follow these tips to ensure a safe and successful descent from Aconcagua. Check out our training advice.
What is the Success Rate on Aconcagua?
When you arrive on the side of Aconcagua, it becomes all about the weather. The reasons the summit success rate is 30% is mainly down to the challenging weather. The winds are unpredictable and challenging at the best of times.
While weather is a major consideration, many factors like, lack of physical preparation and acclimatization also play their part. The weather, specifically high wind are the reason the success rate is so low.
Block it all out!
It’s time to focus on 3 things as you move high on Aconcagua. Firstly, it is important to manage your footwork. By taking small, controlled movements you can limit the amount of stress on your legs, intern conversing as much energy as possible. The guides will set the correct pace to safely reach the summit and get back down again.
Keeping your heart rate lower is extremely important as you will need to conserve energy for the way down. Secondly, you need to focus on your breathing. Deep breathing fast in through your nose fast and out through your mouth is the key to success.
This breathing technique is be used consistency to force oxygen into your body. I swear by it. Finally you nee to stay present. Don’t worry about the traverse or the Canaleta there will be plenty of time to focus on those challenges when they arrive.
What are the Best Month to Climb Aconcagua?
The best months are the only months you can climb Aconcagua. These Months are December, January, February into early March. Within these months there is no one month that is better than the other.
The weather on Aconcagua changes from week to week, day to day and never the same as the year before. Aconcagua is extremely unpredictable. There can be days of 80+ mile an hour winds and the mountain can close down for extreme winds making it unclimbable.
How Cold is it at the Top of Aconcagua?
The temperatures on the summit will vary from trip to trip. When you start off on the summit attempt the usual temperature is anywhere from -15C/ 5F and go as low as – 30 C/ – 22F. I have been on the summit when the temperature was -20C/ -4F and -5C/ 23F. Conditions. Be prepared for polar conditions. Watch our packing video.
What is the Oxygen Level on Aconcagua?
The summit Aconcagua is 6,962m/ 22,841 feet above sea level. At this height, the air pressure (and the amount of oxygen it contains) is less than half that at sea level. To be precise you are working with 41% of what is available at sea level. Climbing to the summit of Aconcagua has been said to be comparable to ‘working with only one lung’.
Reasons to Climb Aconcagua During the day
The main reason to be high on the mountain during the day is managing the cold temperatures. The other main reason is to have visibility on more challenging terrain where there is potential for rock fall high on the mountain.
Our Approach to Summit Night on Aconcagua
With over a decade of experience summiting Aconcagua, our team has honed the ideal approach for summit night, ensuring safety and success. Weather permitting, we commence our ascent from Camp Colera.
Our strategy is grounded in thorough acclimatization, primarily achieved by spending ample time at lower altitudes, particularly having four nights in Base Camp and a full rest day at Camp 2.
We like to move for 1 hour then rest, then another hour then rest. We do this for 3 hours. Higher on the mountain we take breaks every 30 minutes and on the traverse and Canaleta we can stop every few minutes to regain strength and oxygen to move forward.
Our schedule aims to reach the cave after 5 hours of hiking. We like to arrive there by 10am. We will rest and prepare for the final ascent to the summit of Aconcagua.
Navigating High Altitudes on Aconcagua
At around 3am it’s time to rise, prepare gear, and begin hydrating. We encourage gradual water intake, aiming for at least 2 liters before departure.
By 3:30am, a shallow breakfast awaits. It is important not to eat too much. After breakfast you need to prepare for the summit night. It is important to refill your water supplies with boiled water for the upcoming night and day. Some climbers prefer carrying two Nalgene bottles (equivalent to 2 liters) plus a thermos with another liter for the summit attempt, though hydration levels should remain a personal priority throughout the journey to the summit and back to Camp Colera.
Ascending Towards Aconcagua’s Summit
Around 5am, our ascent to the summit commences. Our pace targets a vertical gain of 150m/492 feet per hour. We will gain more than this in the first part of the summit night and less on the back end of the ascent to the cave and Canaleta to the summit of Aconcagua. Maintaining a disciplined pace and routine throughout is important.
Each hour, we halt briefly to hydrate, snack, and attend to personal needs, ensuring efficient progress while insuring safety of the team. As we approach elevations exceeding 6,600m/21,654 feet, more frequent stops may be necessary due to reduced oxygen levels.
The final push towards the summit, particularly the ascent through the Canaleta, demands focused breathing and steady progress. Upon reaching the top of the Canaleta, we will take multiple brief stops to catch our breath until we reach the true summit of Aconcagua.
Descending Safely from Aconcagua
Following a successful summit, our team regroups for the descent to high camp, approximately a 4-hour journey. Descending the Canaleta and crossing the traverse needs to be slow and steady and once we get across the traverse we can move a little quicker. Continually moving down remains crucial for safety so we can get back to camp by 5pm.
Upon reaching high camp, climbers are afforded the option for dinner and then time to sleep. We will try and sleep until early morning the follow day and then descend further down to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp 4,390m/ 14,403 feet. The descent to Plaza de Mulas, presents its own challenges, requiring resilience and determination.
Connect with the Experts
For more information on our Aconcagua expeditions and to embark on your journey to the roof of the Americas, reach out today. With a track record of guiding over 500 climbers to the summit, we’re committed to helping you achieve your goals. Explore our comprehensive guide to climbing Aconcagua for essential tips and insights.