Climbing a Himalayan peak like Lobuche East Peak requires specific and strenuous training. We have been leading trips on Lobuche Peak for over 17 years and have developed an itinerary and trip that offers you the best chance of a safe and successful climb. Don’t underestimate this climb! Lobuche Peak is not a trekking peak, it is a technical climb, and you need to come prepared. Check out our upcoming trips.
Lobuche East Peak is a Mountaineering Peak
The first thing to remember is that Lobuche Peak is constantly changing. The route, terrain and the glacier changes from one season to the next. Specific technical training is needed to be safe climbing Lobuche Peak. Safety is not just for you, we want each member of the team and our guides to be safe while managing this expedition.
We do require that everyone is comfortable using a jumar and competent using a figure of 8 and moving between fixed lines. This training is a requirement to join one of our trips. There have been a number of deaths and serious accidents in recent years so having the correct itinerary, acclimatization technical training and professionals around you will make for a safe and successful experience in the Himalayas.
Be Ready for Anything
Ian has been on Everest, Ama Dablam, 25 Island Peak trips and 10+ Lobuche Peak Expeditions. Each one of those has been totally different than the last. The route up the head-wall changes each season, and sometimes it is more difficult than others. Over the years, the route has become more challenging and more dangerous. Years ago, the route was a lot more straight forward, however as the ice is melting on the Head-Wall, the route to the summit has become more direct.
The climb can be very challenging if there is a lot of snow. If there has been no snow and higher temperatures, then you will find less ice on the head wall, and undulating ice climb with exposed rock. In recent years Lobuche Peak has become more challenging. Because you never know what the conditions will be, you must show up fully prepared.
Be Physically Ready for Lobuche Peak
When it comes to mountaineering, you want to be training harder than you think. You will encounter rock and ice walls with no rest for your calves. If we encounter deep snow, well the snow will be much harder either way, you need to be fully prepared for the hard slog. Learn more.
The conditions could be such that you could have over a twelve hour summit day before getting back to High Camp. Likewise, we have had teams have 16 hour summit days! When it comes to any mountaineering trip, you need to be in excellent physical shape so that you can be ready for whatever is thrown at you. Check out our step by step approach to training.
Can you Walk Across a Ladder with Crampons?
Lobuche East Peak is a true mountaineering challenge—not a trekking peak. Climbing Lobuche East requires technical skills, proper training, and excellent physical preparation to safely navigate its steep and demanding terrain. If you’re considering this climb, it’s essential to be fully equipped with the right mountaineering techniques, including the use of fixed ropes, crampons, and ice axes. Watch some of our videos.
Watch our to see firsthand the steep ascents and technical sections you’ll encounter. Our expert team is always available to discuss the specific training required for a successful Lobuche East expedition. If you’re signed up for one of our climbs, we provide detailed guidance, updated information, and the best preparation strategies to help you summit with confidence.
Specific Mountaineering Training for Lobuche Peak
When it comes to prior preparing and training for going up the head wall, you need to find 60 degree angle terrain. Have a guide set up ropes with 4 to 5 different anchor points. You will have a jumar on a sling or cows tail, attached to your harness.
You should also have a sling (safety line) with a carabiner on the end of the sling. The carabiner should be able to go above the Jumar on the fixed line or in the middle of your jumar. You do not want the Jumar going higher than your nose when fully tight. We run these courses in Scotland and Colorado.
This Training is Required for Your Safety!!
The key technical training should be for going up and down the head wall. You will want your safety line with carabiner on the fixed line. The safety should be kept above the figure of 8 (descending device) as you abseil down.
You need to be comfortable abseiling using a figure of 8 and learning to flip the figure of 8 over once you reach each anchor point. Making sure your safety line is tight as you find the next abseil.
Once you have found the rope and you are safe with the figure of 8 to abseil, then and only then, do you take the safety line from above the anchor point and place on the rope you are abseiling on.
Going Down the Head Wall
You will have to abseil or rappel down the head wall using a figure of 8 from the summit 6,119m/ 20,075 feet. Controlling the rope at 20,000 feet requires excellent physical conditioning. This means you need 40% of your energy to get safely back down the mountain.
You will need to have the leg strength to get you up and down steep terrain. Make sure you are putting in the hours of training to make this a safe experience for you and your team members.
Importantly, you will need to be very comfortable using ropes, Jumar (ascender) and abseiling using a figure of 8 device on fixed lines. This is extremely important for your safety and the safety of the team and our guides. If you are not competent in these skills we can not take you high on the mountain.
Specific Training for Lobuche East Peak
Fitness is important, but being lean, lighter and strong is really important when climbing these big mountains. Do not under estimate this Lobuche Peak challenge. Read some REVIEWS from our trips.
We recommend physical training 5/6 days a week. Focus on two main elements of building strength and endurance in your targeted heart rate zones. We can help you understand the training requires for Lobuche Peak.
Build up Your Training Over Time
Our recommendation is to be training 5/6 days a week. One day should be dedicated to long hikes up and down hills with a weighted backpack building up to 1,000m/ 3,280 feet. Train on a stair master 4 – 5 days a week, starting with minimal weight in your backpack 5kg/ 11lbs.
Then, we recommend slowly building up to carrying 12kg/ 26lbs. You need to train to specific heart rates, therefore doing a fitness test is a very good idea prior to developing a training plan. You should be doing most of your training in the endurance zone. Building from 45 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes per day for four or five sessions a week.
Core Stability
To successfully climb steep and technical peaks like Lobuche East and Island Peak, you need excellent leg strength, core stability, and endurance. The demanding ascents and descents require strong, conditioned muscles to maintain balance and control on exposed terrain.
Stability is especially critical when navigating fixed ropes, icy slopes, and technical sections at high altitude.
To build the necessary power and stamina for a successful climb. We recommend incorporating High-Intensity Interval Training (HIIT) into your training routine in the peak phase of your training.
HIIT workouts help improve cardiovascular endurance, muscular strength, and overall resilience—key factors for tackling the steep, demanding terrain of Lobuche East.
Long Endurance Hikes
Also, you need a longer endurance session, once per week. This longer endurance session is best completed up and down hills with weight in your backpack. However, if you do not have access to hills.
It can be done on a bike doing a long ride or in the gym mixing up the machines you use at very targeted heart rates. We can help you figure this one out to suit your specific situation.
You should be looking at building from 6 to 12+ hours of training per week. Each month you should be trying to increase the weight you carry and the time spent doing the activity.
After 2 months, you should start adding in some weight training, developing your quads, calves, and core. In the last 2 months, you should consider adding in interval training, all while you are still doing the endurance training building up the weight you are carrying.
Strength and Endurance Training
Your Lobuche East peak summit day could be 12+ hours, depending on conditions. Therefore, you need to have the strength and endurance to be able to manage this long day after trekking 13 days to get to this point.
Also, remember that you will then still have to walk 50+km back to Lukla. If you are signing up to one of our Lobuche peak climbs, we will be available as needed to help you.
We want to make sure you are getting the correct information needed for this exciting and challenging climb. CONTACT US today for further information.