Island Peak is a Climb not a Trekking Peak

Island Peak is one of our favorite climbs in the Himalayas!  Ian Taylor has led over 20 trips to this stunning Himalayan Peak.  The mountain has become more challenging over the last decade changing the route and challenge.  More and more people are attempting to climb the mountain with less and less experience.

Climb with Experienced Guides

Unfortunately, many people are showing up to climb Island Peak without the right preparation, strength, knowledge or guides to complete this climb.  The reality is that Island peak is technical, not easy, and requires you to come prepared with the right training, because your safety should be your number one concern.

We have the team in place to make sure that you are taking a safe approach to climbing this mountain.  We do require that you have had prior mountaineering training before joining one of our trips.  GET IN TOUCH today and talk to our team members about how you should approach this mountain.

Island Peak ladder training

Learn from Experienced Guides

In 2018, Ian Taylor completed his 14th and 15th Island Peak climbs with groups.  Once again, with great success as we had 100% success on both trips! We achieve great success for a number of reasons. Firstly, we are successful because we have professional guides helping each person reach their potential. We fix our own ropes to the summit so we are not delayed by other climbers on the potentially dangerous fixed ropes that are already there. Also, we have the best available information for our clients, helping them come fully prepared. Read some REVIEWS from our trips.

The Stunning Island Peak

Having the Right Gear

If you climb in the warmer months you should not be too worried about the cold. However, you do need to be ready for the physical and technical challenges that Island Peak presents. The temperatures range on the mountain and some years you may experience freezing temperatures and others you may not.  If you sign up to an Ian Taylor Trekking trip, then we will send you a complete Dossier on the trip.  This will include a itemized kit list, with all the gear you will need for the climb.  Also, remember to assess your gear for the time of year you plan to climb Island peak.  Don’t let the fact that you did not bring the correct gear ruin your trip. CONTACT US and set up a time to chat about the trip.

The Glacier on Island Peak

Why You Need to Prepare for Island Peak

1).  It is a Technical Summit 

Island peak is technical on one day out of the trip.  However, that does NOT mean you should not come prepared for this challenge. Your safety and the safety of our staff and team members is extremely important.  Therefore, you need to be proficient in abseiling, using a figure of 8 device, and be comfortable moving between fixed lines on a 60 to 70 degree angle.  When you cross the glacier you will be roped together as a team but when you are climbing up and descending down the head-wall, you well be responsible for your safety. It is critical to come physically and technically prepared.

Abseiling off the Head-Wall on Island Peak

2).  Use High Camp

All of the Ian Taylor Trekking climbs on Island Peak use the high camp at 5,500m/ 18,000 feet.  The reason for this is to give you the best chance at reaching the summit and having the energy to not make mistakes in this extreme altitude.  Don’t believe the people who say they don’t use high camp because there is no water. They just don’t have the staff available to fetch water for you. Using high camp improves you chances of success.

We run 6 scheduled Island Peak climbs per year and all are led by our own highly competent guides. We also use the high camp on Island Peak so we can stay ahead of other people and summit early.  Then we can get down as quickly as possible before weather can roll in. By using the high camp this gives you a far better chance at successfully reaching the summit and back down safely.

Island Peak

3).  Fixing our own Ropes

We fix our own ropes on the Head-Wall of Island Peak.  Over the years, there have been too many accidents happening by un-prepared people on the Head-Wall.  We have seen people trying to abseil using the Jumar. We have seen people fall and break arms and legs. And, unfortunately, we have also seen people turn around because their guides did not have any rope with them. Don’t let this happen to you!  Recently, we have seen some of the worst situations on fixed lines.  Firstly, we saw that there were a few people just hanging off the ropes and half the people going up there didn’t make it onto the glacier. Secondly, we were shocked to see eighteen people on the same rope, on one fragile anchor point.

Island Peak is a climb for amateur climbers, however you do need to understand the risk they are taking when they clip onto a rope that is dangerous. We always fix our own lines on the Head-Wall, so that we know that they are safe and secured.  We also do not have to be on the same rope with other groups that are under prepared.

The Summit Ridge on Island Peak

4).  Have the Right Team

We have our own full time staff on the ground who manage each climb. Our head guide Ang Kami Sherpa, was showcased in the recent Sherpa documentary. He has been climbing on Everest for over a decade and in 2014 decided the risk was too high, and thus he came to work with us full time. He is a world class climber, leader and guide. A trusted friend and now family member. He has climbed Everest, Aconcagua, Cho Oyu. Many 8,000m peaks, Ama Dablam 8 times and Island peak over 100 times. Ang Kami has two children and loves climbing and leads most of our Island peak climbs.  Come and climb with Ang Kami and learn from his vast experience.

The Summit of Island Peak

5). Come Physically Prepared

Finally, Island Peak requires excellent physical preparation. We can help you understand all aspects of the climb so you can apply our knowledge to your training. This will give you a safer and better experience. CONTACT US and let’s chat. We have run over 80 Island Peak climbs and many of them with 100% success!  We want people to get the most out of their Himalayan climbing experience and to enjoy, learn and have a life changing experience.  Check out our UPCOMING TRIPS here!

Packing for Island Peak
Specific training for Island Peak
Top 10 tips for climbing Island peak