Expert Advice on Climbing Island Peak in Nepal

We filmed some promotional video’s in the Mount Everest Region in 2014 as we were looking to showcase the quality of our treks and climbs in the Everest Region. We were also looking to showcase our Island Peak trips as so many people were showing up physically under prepared. Since filming in 2014, a lot has changed in the Everest Region. Disasters on Mount Everest. The big 2015 Earthquakes and more and more tourists rather than trekkers entering the region.

Joining a trip to High Altitude, Be Prepared!

The Bells of shame were back in action on the Everest Base Camp Trek this past season. More and more people are entering the Everest Region with little or no preparation. The amount of donkey’s carrying people up the trail to Mount Everest is growing and growing each year. This is dangerous and in our opinion, wrong.

Far too many people with minimal gear, support or understanding of trekking is turning Mount Everest and this famous trail into a bit of a joke. I wonder what the local people think and what the heroes of the past would think of this New Everest. READ MORE.

Speak to Island Peak Experts

Island peak is also drawing an interesting mix of people. Most of whom have no idea what they are getting themselves in for. Just over 200 permits were issues in September with only 14 people reaching the summit. 8 of those were Ian Taylor Trekking clients. Our summit night/day was 19 hours. I have personally been on 19 Island Peak Trips and not that excited about the future of climbing on Island peak.

We had to fix our own ropes in deep snow and this took more time than expected. We left high camp at 2am and didn’t reach the summit until 11:20am. There were no ladder crossings this season but there was a lot of up and down while crossing the glacier and getting up the head wall was slow going in deep snow. BE PREPARED!! Island peak is a mountaineering peak and you never know what you will be dealt in the post monsoon season.

There are three key elements to being safe and successful climbing Island Peak

1). Come in excellent physical shape! Island peak requires that you are more than ready with the highest level of training and physical preparation needed to be safe and successful. If you are coming on one of our trips we require that you come in the best possible shape. Your safety and the safety of our team depend on it.

2). Have the right itinerary with optimal acclimatization. There is a video of a body on the head wall on Island peak. This should not be happening. After leading 19 Island peak trips I have to say that you need the right itinerary with the right acclimatization to give yourself the best chance of safely reaching the summit and getting back down again.

3). Have the right Mountaineering training prior to coming to Nepal. You need to be training on 60 to 70 degree angle terrain. Have a guide set up ropes with 4 to 5 different anchor points. You will need to be comfortable Jumaring going up ropes at these angles. You also need a safety line, sling with carabiner on the end to place on the rope above the Jumar so you can safely move between the fixed lines. You do not want the Jumar going higher than your nose when fully tight. Abseiling or rappelling down steep terrain at altitude can present the biggest challenges. Again you will want your safety line with carabiner on the fixed line. This line should be kept above the figure of 8 as you rappel down the line. You need to be comfortable rappelling using a figure of 8 and learning to flip the figure of 8 over once you reach each anchor point. When you are moving from one rope to the next you need to make sure your safety line is tight at all times to maximize your safety on the ropes. Once you have found the next rappel line and securely locked in, you can switch your safely line to the new rope below the anchor point.

If you would like to chat about signing up to one of our trips just CONTACT US today and we can help you get the correct information for climbing Island peak. We only run 6 trips per year with the same team so we can control the service and consistency of our trips, that we why we are selling out a year in advance on our professionally led Island Peak climbs.

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