Climbing Mera peak for the 5th time

Trekking to Mera peak and the climb itself is one of my favorite journey’s to make in Nepal. I have been on the summit numerous times but the journey through the jungle, remote villages on the lower trail which we use is truly a great experience.


The route we have chosen to Mera peak gives excellent acclimatization. We head south to Poyan,Pangkongma, Nashing Dingma,Chalem Kharka and Chunbu Kharka

Ian Taylor Trekking staff in Chunbu Kharka

before heading onto the main Mera peak trail and arriving in Khote at 3,600m. I love this remote route into Mera. It holds high alpine lakes, very few people, breathtaking views, high passes and excellent acclimatization for the Mera peak climb.

Khote 3,600m

Once we drop down into the main route we are treated to internet,  shops and a little more comfort. We do run into more people but that has to happen at some point. Once we leave Khote the terrain is more gradual up to Tangnag.

Trekking from Khote to Tangnag

There are a lot of risks in mountaineering but between Khote and Tangnag there are a lot of dangerous landslide areas that you really need to move through very quickly. This is one of the most dangerous parts of the whole trail to Mera peak.

On route from Tangnag to Khare

The trail from Tangnag to khare is one of my favorite day trekking on any trip if the weather is clear. This day has it all,  peaks 3 vertical kilometers above your head. High alpine lakes, amazing jagged peaks and glaciers and beautiful high Alpine views.

Moving from Khare to Mera Peak base camp

On our climbs we arrive in Khare after 9 days of trekking. Once we arrive in Khare 4,950m we spend three nights acclimatizing, resting and training. We have you abseiling, jumaring and spend the day giving you professional instruction so you are gaining further experience for future climbs and expeditions.

Mountaineering training in Khare

We want you to become better mountaineer’s, learning a wide range of skills and progress in your knowledge and experience. Being as self-sufficient as possible should always be your mountaineering goal. We will support a full day of training and do some additional ice wall climbing is possible out of Mera Peak base camp.

New route to the Mera La on Mera peak

After three nights of acclimatization, training and recovering from the trek into Khare we move 400m/ 1,312ft higher to Mera peak base camp at 5,350m/ 17,552ft. We hike up to the ridge above Khare and move up a very steep section and round a corner into a rock field before dropping below the glacier wall and moving through a challenging boulder field to the crampon point. From here you put on your harness and crampons. We get out our ice axes and start Alpine climbing. You will be handed a rope to attach to and we will start making our way up the Mera La glacier towards base camp.

Mera peak base camp 5,350m

This the view of Mera peak base camp from the top of the glacier looking east. Once you come back up onto the glacier we turn left and head towards high camp at 5,800m. High camp is 450m/ 1,476ft above Mera peak base camp. The gradient is very gradual at 25 to 30 degree angle up to high camp and we take a nice easy pace.

Mera peak team moving up to High camp

There are some crevasses on route to high camp. There was a french team following us with no ropes and standing on crevasses not really knowing where they were standing. I was told later that someone fell into a crevasse. You need to be roped up all the way along the glacier. You need to be safe at all times.

The view above mera peak peak base camp

Once you have the right acclimatization the climb up to high camp on Mera peak should not be a problem. We take our time moving up but good to get out of base camp early so that you are not walking in the heat and you have time to relax and rest in high camp for your summit attempt.

High camp on Mera peak

Once you arrive in Mera peak high camp usually at about mid day you will get straight into your tent and re-hydrate, rest and get set up for the summit attempt that will start at 2am. Drinking water, eating snacks and trying to rest is really important for your summit success.

View out of the tent at High camp on Mera peak

Drinking lots of water 4/5 ltrs per day is rally important. You may have a headache and taking 400mg of Ibuprofen along with water is the way to go. You should always have some Ibuprofen in your pocket for the summit night.

High wind on Mera peak

You never know what weather you will be dealt but we took off on summit night at 2am. It was cold – 8 celcius but no wind and good conditions. We all moved strong out of high camp, moving passed glaciers  and 3 hours in we were very close to the summit. The wind started to build and just below the crest of the ridge before moving to the last 150m to the summit the wind picked up and gradually got stronger and stronger and we could not stand up. We were literally being blown over. At one point we could not even see and move as the wind was so powerful. We waited for about 5 minutes and the winds continued to pummel us. The decision needed to be made to drop lower, quickly so we moved quickly down the mountain. People were getting cold fast so we needed to retreat all the way back to high camp. We were being hit by 50 mile an hour winds. The team decided not to give the summit another try the following night and we moved back to Tangnag before moving back to Lukla over a number of days. WATCH OUR Mera peak video. Contact us, CHECK OUT our 2017 dates and CONTACT IAN and get on the list to join Ian climbing Mera peak in October 2018.