There have been a number of deaths on Island Peak in recent years because of three things. Firstly, lack of physical preparation. Secondly, lack of adequate acclimatization and thirdly, poor technical ability. These three things are leading to people taking risks beyond their ability. This puts everyone on the mountain at risk.
Your Island Peak Checklist
If you are looking to climb Island peak, here are some things you need to make your team has in place in order to make a safe and successful ascent of Island peak. You need to consider all these items before signing up to a trip like this. Here is our page with all our most important Island peak links and information.
1). Make sure you have a fully qualified climbing guide furthermore have climbing Sherpa’s who can fix ropes and manage your safety correctly.
2). Make sure your team have their own private ropes to fix high on Island peak.
3). Make sure you have two nights acclimatizing in Island Peak Base Camp prior to your ascent. You should also be using high camp.
4). Make sure your team has a high camp set at 5,500m/ 18,000 feet for your ascent on the summit.
5). Make sure you have adequate training with all equipment before leaving Island peak base camp.
6). Make sure your team has 250m of private fixed rope for climbing safely in addition, to the main rope for glacier travel.
7). Make sure you have 1:2/3 ratio of guides to clients
8). Make sure you have some mountaineering experience because, Island Peak is a mountaineering peak.
9). Make sure you have previous altitude experience
10). Make sure you don’t use the already attached fixed lines. If you are make sure a climbing Sherpa goes ahead of you to make sure they are secure. I have witnessed anchors coming out time and time again.
11). Make sure you are proficient at abseiling or rappelling using a figure of 8. Know your knots especially if you lose your figure of 8.
Island Peak Experts
Climb Island peak with us and give yourself the best safety along with, the best chance at successfully reaching the summit. With more inexperienced people flocking to Island peak each year hence, Island peak is becoming more dangerous. I am just back from my 15th summit of Island peak and I was shocked at the lack of safety on the mountain. We had 100% success on our Island peak climbs this season. We achieve this with excellent acclimatization from start to finish along with, FIXING OUR OWN ROPES for each climb. Using high camp is a major advantage for safety and success. All our teams have two or three training sessions including ladder training in Chuckung before going to Island Peak Base Camp. Check out our upcoming trips.
On my recent Island Peak climbs I witnessed some shocking safety procedures in particular, by some local trekking companies. I spoke to a lot of people coming past us on the route to the summit, all rushing and not pacing themselves. They were coming straight from base camp. They had no ropes and no idea why they would need them. I also witnessed a number accidents on the way down, with too many people completely wasted. I have had to help people get helicoptered out because of falls on numerous occasions.
It is never a good thing when people are using Jumar’s to descend the mountain to clarify, a Jumar is only meant for the ascent. There were a massive number of people using the already dangerous fixed ropes to pull themselves up the mountain. I witnessed 18 people on one anchor point which is crazy and I can assure you this is not safe.
Your Guides Should be Fixing Ropes on the Head Wall
I witnessed some serious neglect from other teams. The climbers had no idea the risks they were taking climbing on the fixed lines which have been there from the previous season. Some of our team members met a Canadian climber who fell on the head wall because the fixed ropes and anchor came out of the mountain. I have witnessed broken legs, arms and people falling into the gully’s and usually see so many people turn around because they haven’t done the training or come with the right skill set for the climb. Read some REVIEWS from our trips.
Your Guides Need to be Checking the Anchors
Each climbing season a fixed line is placed on the head wall as a result, teams do not bring their own ropes. With so many people pulling on the ropes and not driving their movement through the leg strength consequently the anchors become loose over time. This is why a guide needs to go ahead and check all the anchor points.
Depending on the season they looked dodgy to me. Climbing at 60/70 degrees angles on ropes you have no idea who fixed them is reckless. This can be dangerous and not a safe way to climb. The ice on the head wall of Island Peak is melting fast and there is more rock fall than I would like. I was at the bottom of the head wall in October twice this season and both times we were narrowly missed by rock fall. LEARN MORE.
Do you Understand the Safety Systems Needed?
Don’t sign up to an Island Peak climb with a team who do not have the above safety and systems in place. Island peak is not a trekking peak on the other hand, demands respect. If you think you have what it takes and you have been putting in the hard training needed, why would you compromise on your safety. Knowledge is power, being informed puts you and others in a safer position.
Upcoming Trips to Island Peak
Click here for our upcoming trips. We have extensive experience leading and running Island Peak trips. In conclusion, we have developed the best itinerary for safety and success and this is proven by our results. Read some reviews from our trips and we looking forward to helping you on the way to the summit of Island peak.