There have been a number of unnecessary deaths on Island peak in the past few years. So we want you to be informed and fully prepared for Island Peak Climb. Once you have finished reading this page why not check our page that hold all the important links and information. We only run a limited number of quality trips with the world class climbing Sherpa’s and western guides so we can keep consistency and safety to a maximum. We also fix our own ropes on the head wall for your safety. Climb Island Peak with us and give yourself the best chance at success. READ SOME REVIEWS
Island Peak is not a Trekking Peak
Island peak is NOT a trekking peak. We highly recommend doing one of our winter skills mountaineering course in Scotland or Colorado before attempting to climb Island peak. Some years ladder crossings are required, so we do have ladder training while we are in chuckung before heading into Island peak Base Camp for two nights. You will be climbing at 6,000m/ 20,000 feet on a 50 – 70 degree angle with our own fixed ropes on challenging terrain at extreme altitude. As you can see in our Island Peak video, you need to come prepared for this Himalayan style mountaineering. We can help you. CONTACT US and learn more about our approach to climbing Island peak.
85% SUCCESS rate our Island peak climbs
We have developed our own unique itinerary. We have three nights in Namche Bazaar 3,440m/ 11,300 feet. It is really important to spend more time at this elevation to give yourself more time to adjust to the lower levels of Oxygen. We have two nights in Dingbouche at 4,350m/ 14,272 feet. On our normal Island peak itinerary we trek to Everest Base Camp and Kala phatar at 5,645m/ 18,520 feet before coming back down the trail to Pheriche, then move to Chuckung. We then conduction mountaineering training and then head to Island peak base camp for two nights. This gives you more acclimatization along with time to do some additional mountaineering training. We have even more acclimatization moving up to Island Peak high camp at 5,500m/ 18,044 feet. Having all this acclimatization give us a 85% success rates on Island peak trips. We have the itinerary and team in place to give you the best chance at success. If you come fully trained and prepared you give yourself the best chance at making the summit. We will play our part by giving you the best itinerary and acclimatization. Check out some videos on Instagram page.
Climb Island Peak with Professionals
Ian has climbed Island peak 17 times to date and our head climbing Sherpa Ang Kami has climbed Island peak over 200 times. Ian is available to help you understand the specific training and technical skills needed to be safe and successful on Island peak. Check out THIS PAGE for very important information on climbing Island peak. Then get on our BLOG and read more about the Everest region, Nepal and climbing Island peak.
What Technical Skills do I need to Climb Island Peak
When it comes to preparing for Going up the head wall you need to find 60 to 70 degree angle terrain. Have a guide set up ropes with 4 to 5 different anchor points. You will have a jumar on a sling or cows tail attached to your harness. You should also have a sling (safety line) with carabiner on the end of the sling. The Carabiner should be able to go above the Jumar on the fixed line. You do not want the Jumar going higher than your nose when fully tight.
The key mountaineering training should be for going down the head wall. You will want your safety line with carabiner on the fixed line. The safety should be kept above the figure of 8 (descending device) as you abseil down. You need to be comfortable abseiling using a figure of 8 and learning to flip the figure of 8 over once you reach each anchor point. You need to make sure your safety line is tight as you find the next abseil. Once you have found the rope and you are safe with the figure of 8 to abseil, then and only then do you take the safety line from above the anchor point and place on the rope you are abseiling on. This training is important for your safety!!
You will have to abseil or rappel down the head wall using a figure of 8 at 6,150m/ 20,177 feet high and you will have to have the leg strength to get you up and down steep terrain. You need to be really comfortable using ropes, Jumar ascender and more importantly abseiling using a figure of 8 on fixed lines. This is really important for your safety and the safety of our guides and staff.