Camping at Everest Base Camp

We did it, we camped at Everest Base Camp with Ian Taylor Trekking. We feel honored and thrilled to be writing this blog having newly returned from an experience of a
lifetime. Despite the year long build up it exceeded all our expectations. Major credit must go to Ian Taylor trekking and the wonderful team, lots in the office and all in Kathmandu. Check out their upcoming trips.

Hiking Put on Hold

We had both come from backgrounds where we enjoyed hiking. However having four sporty daughters put any serious trekking on hold for 20+ years. Weekends were dominated by a mixture of Athletics, Netball, hockey etc. In recent years with all the girls now in their ‘twenties’ we got back into hiking.

Living in Manchester we are incredibly fortunate within 20 minutes we have the West
Pennine Moors, the Peak district and Yorkshire Dales and lots an hour away; the Lake District is just an hour and a little further afield (but still a day trip) in Snowdonia. We got the bug and became more and more confident.

Camping at Everest Base Camp

Is the Everest Trek a Crazy Idea?

Then one day out of the blue we had the crazy idea- forget Europe, forget
Africa- lets take the plunge and go for the most iconic long distance trek in the world. I sent Ian Taylor trekking a note via the email link. I followed through with a phone call to the number and was shocked when the number diverted to Ian Taylor himself in Colorado.

On two consecutive days I spoke to him for over 30 minutes. He was very helpful and persuadable…We were hooked and never regretted the choice we made. We were both going to be age 55 and 56 respectively so decided it was now or never. We got ourselves in the best shape we could and by November 2nd we were as
ready and as excited as we were ever going to be…

Camp at Everest Base Camp Trek 3rd November 2023

We arrived in Kathmandu with Graham/ Janet and checked in around 11am at the Encore Hotel in Thamel. It is a really nice hotel.  Had a wander round shops and got a feel for the place. Reminded me of the favella in Rio. Bought a fleece as Eddie lost his at the airport.

Meeting with group. Mary from Germany, Ruth from Cork. Phil and Evan from the states and us. A great group. We were feeling a bit nervous after our briefing with Kay, who explained lots could go wrong and important to listen to the guides. After the trip briefing we had dinner with Graham and Janet in roof top restaurant, then tucked up in bed by 8:30 as we were shattered. Got to be up at 6:30am.

Lukla Airport 2023

Camping at Everest Base Camp Trek 4th November

Slept terribly. Mixture of Jet lag and overtiredness. An earthquake in Nepal last night but luckily not near us. Managed to sort small propellor plane to Lukla from Kathmandu.
Never been on a plane so small. 15 of us on plane and maybe room for 6-8 more max.

Bit scary when I looked out of the window as we were so high in the mountains with huge drops but when I got over fear, the views were incredible. Landing was so scary. Shortest runway, right into the mountains but we made it.

We had lunch in Lukla then trek started hiking. The hike was up and down on rocky paths through villages, lush greenery cross rivers. The scenery is just beautiful everywhere you look, even when we had some rain. We ended up at a tea house in Phakding for the night, close to the Dudh Kosi river.

We were all tired from travel, jetlag and looking forward to a good nights sleep. We had two single beds with a duvet and pillow. Toilet is basic but a toilet at least. It was a cold tonight so thermals need to be on. I started thinking about Diamox, but felt ok, just tired but think that’s the jet lag really.

Camping at Everest Base Camp Trek 5th November

Thank goodness I slept much better last night. The room was cold and basic but sleeping bag was toasty. I had an extra duvet covering me. Up early to pack bags and breakfast was served at 7am so we could be out ready to start hiking at 8am. I decided to start taking Diamox. I wanted  to be safe not sorry. Had the most exciting and uplifting day hiking from Phakding to Namche Bazaar through Monjo.

Such incredible scenery throughout the day. I didn’t expect there to be so much
lush greenery. Huge forests coming down the mountains, Sherpa villages growing vegetables, huge rivers cascading from the mountains with beautiful blue, clear waters and snow capped mountains high up. All with beautiful clear skies.

We went over some scary suspension bridges that wobbled too. Last couple of hours were tough as we climbed steadily up into Namche. Pasang our head guide took it slow but we needed the slow pace.

Finally arrived at Hotel Namche. Pure luxury compared to last night. Rooms with nice beds and bedding. Electric blankets and showers too! We’ve even done washing!
Our group all started to bond well. Lovely, bubbly Ruth from Cork. Evan and Paul. Son and dad from New York and Connecticut. All lovely. Janet and Graham too. All getting on great. Can’t wait for bed tonight!

Camping at Everest Base Camp

Camping at Everest Base Camp Trek 6th November

Well that was a great night sleep. Toasty in the bed with my liner and of course with the electric blanket. Woke up once to go on the toilet but not bad at all. Room not too cold either. Down for breakfast at 7am  and then off on our first active rest day.

We took a short hike through Namche up to the Tenzing Hilary statue and Sherpa Museum. This was a steep hike on stairs then trail for around 30-40 mins at a slow pace.
I could feel the difference in the altitude. Got to the statue with fab clear views of Mount Everest in the distance. Didn’t expect that! Was just magnificent. 360 degrees
view of so much all around us.

After taking many pictures we visited the Everest and Sherpa Museum then headed back down to Hotel Namche. Found a cat! Back to hotel for lunch then some free time to wander round Namche.

Some great shops selling Yak wool, hats, socks etc.. and loads of trekking gear. Walked round and could feel it coming up the steps again. Took it slow. Found a lovely coffee shop near hotel to chill and sat there for a good hour. Our plan was to meet Kancha
Sherpa of around 90 or so who was part of the Edmund Hilary expedition but he’d left for Kathmandu because of the winter,  so we chilled in room for a bit before dinner at 6pm. Another great day.

Camping at Everest Base Camp Trek 7th November

Another acclimatization in Namche. Not as good a night sleep as previous night but
not bad. Tummy a bit crampy but think that due to lack of fruit and veg! Early 7am breakfast with everyone.

Unfortunately, Mary the German is leaving as suffering from with altitude sickness. She was the quietest in the group but still a shame. She did at least get to see the peak of
Mount Everest yesterday at the Tenzing Norgay museum! Today was our hike up to 3,900m to Shangbouche Hill and we had beautiful clear skies and views of the whole of the Everest region. Everest again! Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. The mountain viewing was magnificent and so lucky with clear skies.

The trek up was slow going. We were puffing and panting and you could feel it in your breath with each step. Slowly, slowly and sippy sippy. Lots of breaks but a great achievement to have made it.  We saw skydivers jumping out of planes too.

The route down was much quicker although I could feel it in my knees. Hope it
holds out!! Back to hotel where it was sunny still and much warmer to have lunch. We all chilled and then got cakes chilled in the lounge for a bit. Some bought extra fleeces as we are all concerned how cold base camp will be. Bags all have to be packed
as we leave for Tengbouche through the valley tomorrow.

Camping at Everest Base Camp

Camping at Everest Base Camp 8th November

Slept well last night actually although when I did go to the bathroom felt sickly but managed to get back to sleep thankfully although heard the barking dogs which Namche is famous for. Packed all out bags up before breakfast and luckily managed to sort Eddie’s sleeping bag out.

We had a glorious sunny morning again so after breakfast checked out of our ‘luxury tea house’ and started our trek to Tengbouche. It felt like on Alpine forest with great views of the Everest region again as we hiked down to Dudh Kosi which seemed a long way down about 300m to the river. We had already stopped half way for tea before
stopping for lunch where we went down to t-shirts. Then the big climb up of around 700m. Steep steps and path at a slow slow pace. Every breath was tough. Clouds came in so was misty at the top when we arrived in Tenbouche.

The Famous Tengbouche Monastery

We checked in to our teahouse (more or less like our first stop in Monjo) then had the
privilege of entering the famous Tengbouche monastery. I sat down in the room where the monks pray, about 12 monks started their prayers and rituals. It was the most colourful, beautifully decorated room and the monks were dressed in thick robes,  playing instruments too. It was a fascinating experience.

It was time for the bakery and back to the teahouse for dinner. It was a cold night so you can pay extra to have your Nalgene filled as hot water.

Camping at Everest Base Camp 9th November

I had a good nights sleep. The hot water bottle was lovely in the sleeping bag and helped with the tummy pains. Actually felt a bit easier once we woke but it was time to get packed up. I had French Toast for breakfast and it was a gorgeous morning with clear views of lots of the peaks. A bit colder now we are higher up so extra layers on as we set off through the Rhododendron trees through the trail.

Always seeing Yaks along the way,  its so fascinating to see them ringing their bells as
they pass by. Beautiful sunshine again as we crossed the big suspension bridge over the river just beyond Debouche. From here we climbed uphill slowly till we reached upper Pangbouche.

Ama Dablam from the Everest trail

Ama Dablam and the Pangbouche Monastery

We had some great views of the beauty Ama Dablam ‘Mother’s charm box’. Stopped at a tea house where a little boy was playing. He was very cute. We visited the famous Pangbouche monastery. This monastery was the first settlement in the region over 700 years ago. The Pangbouche monastery holds the remains of a Yeti skull and hand!

This monastery was much smaller than the Tengbouche Monastery, with only one monk saying prayers. After tea we continued toward Dingbouche and the imja valley. Our pace was nice and slow. On route to Dingbcouhe we had lunch in a small village called Shomare in the sunshine and had stew which was like a veg soup with flat dumplings. It was really nice.

We then continued another two hours slowly up hill to Dingbouche at about 4350m!! Really getting higher. Once we could see Dingbouche we had another kilometer to reach our lodge for two nights.  We were exhausted when we arrived. Rooms similar to the previous night. The dining room was also similar. All quite tired today.

My stomach was still a bit crampy and I had a slight headache now as the altitude getting
higher! Oh also found out I left my battery gloves in Tengbouche. Had no clue, I think I left them in room. Luckily Pasang will get them sent up tomorrow.

Camping at Everest Base Camp 10th November

I had a cosy night again with the hot bottle and slept quite well again. Woke about 5:45am for the toilet but was happy with that. Was really warm again in the sleeping bag. Breakfast was served at 7am again and then wrapped up ready for our hike. Beautiful sunny day again but a bit more windy.

Our goal was to hike up to 4,900m above the town while acclimatizing. From the first hill above Dingbouche, we could see three 8,000m mountains in one go. We would see Makalu, Cho Oyu and Lhotse.   All magnificent peaks. Today was tough going as gradient was steeper and we all felt the altitude today.

The weather got clearer as we got near the top and a Yak posed
for us on a rock, this was just stunning. Just as hard coming down as it was steep, but we all made it in time for lunch.

Café 4410

Our 2 course meals have all gone down to 1 course and most of us having soup. The
altitude messing with our appetites. Changed after lunch then headed down to café 4410 to chill and catch up on the Wi-Fi.

What a busy, vibrant warm café with a lovely vibe. Stayed for a few hours and
Janet, Graham and Ruth joined us a bit later for coffee and cake. I headed back up to the lodge in time for tea. Most of us had soup which was enough for us and chilled in
warm room with the group. I got to speak with my mum and dad on facetime in the café and managed to call the girls after dinner. Lovely to hear and see them. Was lovely to hear about Simrones wedding in Morocco. Hot water bottle again, then bed. Had double blankets again.

Namche with Thamsurku in the background

Camping at Everest Base Camp 11th November

Thankfully a good night sleep. If anything, I was too hot. Packed up before breakfast. Every morning and evening we get our heart and oxygen level checked. Ready to leave at 8am and was the most clear day we had yet. Blue skies, cold, but when the sun on you it felt good.

It was time to hike towards Thukla at 4,620m for an early lunch. It  was a steady incline that took about 3 hours. Always slow with lots of breaks. We
could see Lobuche East peak at 6,119m and also the north face of Tawache.

We stopped for lunch and we were all tired and ready for rest. Was a busy place but we always have our meals ready for us. I had Veg noodle soup today which was needed. After our rest a very tough hour incline to the Everest memorial. We managed a slow pace all the way up to the memorial. When we got there, I was surprised to see so many memorials of people wo had died including a Jewish boy in his 20’s from the states. Very moving and the sky was so clear with a few rainbow clouds.


We continued on steady incline for another hour until we reached Lobuche at 4,920m. Lobuche was more baron place. To me it seemed like being in a western. I was feeling a lot colder now as the clouds rolled in. We were so lucky again with the weather. We checked in to tea house and chilled with hot drinks. Room basic but not too bad. Feeling tired now from the altitude.

Kala Patthar

Camping at Everest Base Camp 12th November

We all know this is going to be a really tough day ahead. I slept ok thank goodness, I was nice and warm in my sleeping bag. Looking bac on this day, it was a challenging day to say the least.

When we left Lobuche we had a gradual incline before a steep hill before moving into the glacial moraine of rocky terrain with lots of ups and downs. Really challenging with the altitude. We had the added challenge of some cross winds early on in the day making it biting cold although clear skies again.

Slowly, Slowly

Slowly, slowly with lots of stops which we all needed. Half way we broke away from Phil and Evan who were struggling. We finally made it to the Gorak Shep at 5,180m at the site of the 1953 Everest Expedition Base Camp. Our team had lunch although we
were all shattered and we all debated about going up Kala Patthar at 5,645m.

Camping at Everest Base Camp

Kala Patthar

Kala Patthar is a 2 hour steep climb up from Gorak Shep and 1 hour backdown.  In the end, myself and Graham decided to go for it. I tried not to think about how
hard it would be but it was the toughest climb yet. It was steep and we were so tired.

There were lots of rocks and boulders towards the top. We eventually made it after about 2 hours and we were in time for sunset. We had clear views of Mount Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Changtse in Tibet all with gorgeous red colours on them as the sun settled on Mount Everest.

We stayed for nearly an hour before trekking down. Not easy as it was steep and once it started to go dark we needed our head torches. Probably took an hour to get down and then it was pitch black. The sky was so clear but filled with lots of stars. We were thrilled to go down as it was so draining.

Everyone was waiting for us apart from Phil and Evan. They decided to leave by helicopter the following morning. We were not even hungry as we were all sapped of energy.

Gorak Shep

Gorak Shep was our most basic accommodation and probably the coldest. The toilets were not great and the toilet downstairs had ice on the floor. At least it had a seat on. We all couldn’t get to bed quick enough tonight. We got hot Nalgene and a hot water bottle too. Lights went out at 9pm. One more sleep before we reach our goal, camping at Everest base camp. Also my bladder froze half way up Kala Patthar, the tube completely froze by the time we came back. It is best to bring Nalgene’s inside your backpack.

Camping at Everest Base Camp 13th November

It was freezing in the room last night and we had patchy sleep. The hot water bottle Nalgene certainly warmed the sleeping bag up. My nose seems to be very blocked at night as the air is so dry here. We were actually allowed a lie in today till 7am, an extra hour, although Eddie woke early, he was dressed and I never heard him get up.

We said our goodbyes to Phil and Evan as they got a helicopter back to Kathmandu this morning. We all relaxed until 9:30am, and then started our trek to EBC. The initial trail was a flat path through the valley to start with an then a rocky path with up and down along the Glacial Moraine. It was tough going and still climbing from Gorak Shep. I was tired from yesterday’s hike too.

We had a good few stops along the way until we reached EBC and can only describe it like some kind of apocalypse with huge boulders everywhere from the mountains above.

The Khumbu Glacier

The Khumbu glacier is out of this world as it goes on down the valley finding its way to the Dhudh Kosi River. Our campsite at Everest Base Camp was being set up by Pemba and Mingma. They greeted us with hot chocolate on our arrival.  It was amazing to see the Khumbu ice fall right before us. It was like being on another planet.

We were served soup and pasta as we sat on the rocks at Everest Base Camp.  We had North Face tents and a toilet tent in our camp. With the heat of the day it was nice and warm.  We soaked in our surroundings with beautiful clear skies again. Once our tents were made up we all got inside and organized. The tent had a thin foam mattress at the bottom. We had our Thermarest air mattresses as well, which give us extra distance from the ice below.

Pasang then took us down further into the glacier,  which was just incredible. Huge ice blocks with big rocks perched on top glacial water running through. It was really something else to see. Once back at camp we got more soup, some popcorn then had photos at the big rock. It started to get cooler as the clouds draw in.

It was time to layer up. The tent was cozy and Pemba made us lentil soup, rice and dhal as we all sat in the kitchen tent which was a little warm from the cooking equipment. The rice was cooked in a steamer.

Graham and Janet didn’t join us as they were both feeling rough. I ended up going in the tents around 6:30pm with our hot water bottle and Nalgene. Stayed fully dressed with a thick hat, clean socks and thin gloves. Who knows if we will sleep at all !!!

Camping at Everest Base Camp 14th November

Well our night camping at Everest Base Camp will never be forgotten. We were both cozy in the sleeping bags but it was hard to sleep. I think I slept a bit more than Eddie. We heard a lot of avalanches which were loud, scary and we could hear cracking noises which I thought was the rocks moving but it was ice cracking.

We went to the toilet twice that night, when we went outside the sky was full of stars it was incredible to see. The tent was a little wet from the condensation and the toilet had frost on the outside but it was a seat to sit down at least.

It was a challenging night but at 5:30am Pasang woke us with hot drinks and we were glad to have survived the night at Everest Base Camp. They started taking the tents down straight away so there was no messing around. We put all our layers we had on as it was freezing. I needed my mittens but it was still so cold.

Leaving Everest Base Camp

Pemba and Mingma worked on packing everything up. Poor Graham wasn’t too good at all, or Janet. My tummy felt crampy and my back had been hurting that night.  We began the journey in the cold back to Gorak Shep. I really struggled and doubted I could go on after this. Poor Graham was battling every step, it was so cold as it was so early. It may have taken us 2 hours to reach Gorak Shep.

Even Gorak Shep was a little warmer than base camp but not great. Breakfast awaited us but I felt lousy but thank goodness after a good poo the backache,  tummy pains stopped. It was a very emotional as it was the end of the road for Graham and Janet.

He had nothing left to give so our 5 became the 3 amigos with us and Ruth! We had a good break here whilst the helicopter was arranged for them then we began our next leg of our long day. We retraced our steps through the Lobuche, the Everest Memorial, stopped for lunch in Thukla before making it back to Pheriche.

Lower Altitude

We all just tried to focus on each step. It was easier with the altitude but the terrain was still quite rocky until later in the day.  We finally reached the lower trail where the paths were a little easier and made it just before the Yaks arrived in Pheriche now at 4,200m.

A full day of almost 20km and we were shattered. We checked into the tea house which was so quiet as it is the end of the season really. The dining area was cold as we had an early tea at 6pm. I ordered pizza although I only ate half of it. The room was like a lodge but it was old.

We had our own bathroom but the toilet was a squat toilet but at least it was ours and the
toilet in the dining room was a proper one at least and it was clean! Our room was cold but we got two blankets and a hot water bottle. I think we were in bed at 7pm as we were absolutely shattered.

Camping at Everest Base Camp 15th November

I think we both must’ve slept for 8 hours and boy we needed it. We were both so tired. We quickly dressed, packed up,  had breakfast at 6:00am to leave at 6:30am. We wanted more time in Namche.

Today would be another long day. It was a real challenging day today heading back through lower Pangbouche then uphill into Tengbouche where the monastery was. We stopped for a well earned hot chocolate and I had banana cake.

In the sunshine it was beautiful with great mountain views.  It was downhill then for a spot by the river for Sherpa stew! Then back up another 1 hour 30 minutes which was so tough. Mingma had music on and it really helped our motivation.

The scenery was just epic now with huge valleys of pine trees and the river down below with the snow capped mountains. We even saw a few mountain goats and the
national bird which looked a bit like a peacock. It was another 1 hour 30 minutes up and down before we reached Namche. We were all so elated to have reached Namche.

Hotel Namche

We checked into the same tea house but this time they gave us the top floor which had been recently built. Compared to what we had higher up the trail these were pure luxury. We even got a double bed as Ruth swapped to let us have it.

It was tastefully done out Nepalese style and the bathroom was modern and new. We had a few problems with the shower but eventually got it sorted. It was so exciting to stand under the hot water, wash and feel warmth on my body. I scrubbed my nails washed my hair which I don’t think I had done for 8-9 days.


My fingers were prunes in the end but I didn’t care. My feet are sore and tired
as is my knee but I’m here. I just needed to get through tomorrow now! As it was Diwali some of the Sherpas were dancing outside Hotel Namche. It  was a great atmosphere as we all danced round some flowers.

After dinner the music started again. Pasang played an instrument like a small guitar, another played on the drums and we all danced in the dining room. It was a special night and we were all buzzing to have reached Namche.

One night of luxury and one more long day tomorrow to get back to Lukla. We
can do it!!

Camping at Everest Base Camp 16th November

The bed was comfy, the room warm and we felt we had luxury for one night. Eddie’s cough was bad so that kept us up for half night, but we were roaring to go with fresh legs and feet. My toes were not sore this morning and knee felt ok thank god.

The temperature was a lot warmer so had to stuff more in our duffle bags which are now packed to the rafters. We started our day after pancakes around 7:30am. It was cool but sunny as we started the long trek down the Namche Hill for about an hour. It was tough and I can’t believe we came up it. So rocky, a little slippy and the path was busy with runners in a competition, trekkers going up and down and lots of Yaks too.

The Hillary Bridge Again

We crossed our first high suspension bridge then lots of trekking up and down. Lots of steep downs and tough ups. We ended up at Phakding for lunch where we had been on our first night. It was lovely and sunny, so we sat outside and had toasties which were well needed.

Pasang was going at a much slower pace today which suited us all as our legs were tired. The paths were so rocky too you really needed to watch every step. We carried on for another couple of hours going up and down soaking in all the scenery and all the villages we passed along the way. The local people here all living very simple lives growing vegetables on their land and selling stuff to all the passing hikers. It was fascinating to see.

Thank goodness Pasang let us stop for an afternoon coffee and cake break where the views into the valley were breathtaking. Our final ascent to Lukla was tough. It was steep and even though we were ending back at 2,850m it seemed like the ups were more than downs.

We finally reached our last part of the 13 day trek back at Lukla where we started but with only 3 of us! Another 20km hike but took us 8 hours with the pace and stops but it was worth it.

We had made it safely and we were all so elated to have completed it! We all hugged even with Mingma, Pasang and Pemba. We couldn’t have done it without them. Dinner was heaven even though tea house back to basic again but we are smiling. It’s
the toughest thing I’ve ever done and I’ve pushed myself. I am proud!

Camping at Everest Base Camp 17th November

It was actually warm in the sleeping bag last night compared to previous nights and even took my hat off. I had patchy sleep but felt rested. My legs were a bit twitchy but our hiking was done. We were awake around 6am by the time the first flights starting arriving and leaving Lukla. Our room was literally right by the short runway and the fuel fumes were strong through our window.

I think we both woke with a spring in our tail knowing no more hiking. We managed to pack our duffle bags well for the last time as we met Ruth for breakfast at 8am. The sun was shining, we were all chilled now, in no rush.

We could relax even on the rooftop for a while watching the planes leaving and arriving in the mix with the constant move of the helicopter too. It was bedlam at Lukla and we hadn’t realized there was only one flight leaving to Kathmandu per airline so no wonder it was so busy but we didn’t care and even managed to laugh about other people whilst we waited for the flight.

Time to leave Lukla

We probably waited a few hours before we finally boarded without having to pay for excess weight. The plane seemed a little bigger a bit more substantial than on our way in. The take off was scary as runway so short but I wasn’t quite as scared as on the way in.

The views of the whole region were just vast and breathtaking and the skies were clear the whole 30min flight back to Kathmandu. Starting with vast forests and little villages tiered into the dramatic mountains to all brightly coloured boxes as we got nearer to Kathmandu.

Dwarrika Hotel

We were off the plane with our bags in no time,  before we knew it we were in the car on our way to Dwarrika’s hotel. Not really knowing what would await us both. We were certainly not disappointed. What lay behind two huge wooden doors was an absolute oasis of understated opulence.

Huge wooded balconies and posts with immaculate but tasteful brick work. Huge wooded pieces of furniture all set around different courtyards with the most strong scented flowers,  old and mature huge fruit trees.

We both could not believe our eyes or senses. It felt like we were on honeymoon. Our room or suite was so luxurious and huge it felt like we had 10 times the size of room we had been used to. A huge bed a day bed, a large desk, a lounge area, a magnificent wash area with two copper or gold sinks, a massive bath, a wonderful modern toilet and stone shower room.


We left our bags,  literally got our swim stuff on and went down to the calming pool area. It was heaven on Earth. Janet and Graham met us after a while and we had so much to catch up on as we hadn’t seen them since Gorak Shep.

We had the most gorgeous relaxing lunch. I had a Quinoa salad which I had craved for. By the time we had eaten we made a few calls then rushed back to the room to shower wash my hair before being collected for reunion dinner at a pizza place near the Ramada hotel. Kay and Dawa were there, along with Pasang and Mingma and sonam who works for Ian Taylor Trekking. We reunited with Ruth and had the most gorgeous evening.


By the time we had finished I was tired. We walked back to the Ramada hotel as Thamel was buzzing. It was all lit up still and shops were still open.  It has a complete different feel than when we were here before the trek.

I collapsed into bed as I felt so tired after today but our room was so luxurious we were both so happy and still on a high. Probably our latest night, it was around 10:30pm.

Camping at Everest Base Camp 18th November

Considering I was so exhausted I don’t think I slept that well. Even with all that luxury, I felt a bit restless but I suppose I was rested at least. Got up for breakfast around 8am. There was so much to choose from the buffet. Too much really, I chose lychee juice, strawberry yoghurt in a little ceramic pot, some fresh fruit, a few nuts and fresh tomatoes.

I’m still craving fresh stuff. We finished off with poached eggs on brown toast. We both felt stuffed. We went to sit round the oasis of our pool area and caught up on texts and strava’s.

Touring Kathmandu

It was heaven! We had an early lunch with Janet and Graham. I had veg sushi which was delicious and light We were being picked up at 2pm for our tour of Kathmandu.
Dilip was our guide and we had 4 and a half hours going to Bhaktapur ‘old town’. All the buildings were like the Dwarika with ornate wooden posts, awnings and doors. We also visited Boudhanath stupa and the Monkey temple which was full of monkeys running around.

We were shattered by the time we returned but had time for a shower, a few biscuits that were left in the room and chocolates just to give us some energy before Ruth arrived to meet us for dinner.

We had drinks first in Graham and Janet’s room then down for dinner at 8pm. We sat outside on a nice table with heated patio warmers and blankets to keep us warm. I chose mushroom soup and salmon with risotto. They gave us a few portions of bread so by the time food came I think most of us were stuffed as tummy’s must have shrunk!

We really brought down the cake we had in our room but most of us couldn’t face it. We
were all so stuffed. At this point we were all getting so tired. We couldn’t get to bed quick enough tonight and hopefully I will sleep better than yesterday. We put the room fan on tonight rather than air con so hopefully it will help.

Last Day of our Adventure 19th November (Elz Birthday)

Last day in paradise! Slept so well thankfully. Had our last breakfast of French toast, banana’s and some fresh fruit juice. Sat with Graham Janet  around the pool again.
Gorgeous warm relaxing in the sunshine.

Last part of the Blog

1).  Most amazing Trip Ever we still can’t believe we did it. In fact we absolutely smashed it!! A massive, enormous thank you should go to Ian Taylor Trekking team. We will both never ever forget the superb set up from start to finish. Our lead guide Pasang and his team gave us incredible support. The bond with them and our fellow trekkers will last a lifetime.

2). For anyone reading this, and considering it we only have one thing to say to you ‘just go and do it.’

Thank you everyone     –   Francine and Eddie Edwards

Sleeping at Everest Base Camp
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