Firstly, we will cover the best mountains to climb before Aconcagua. It is also important to understand more about high altitude and why our information can make the difference between success and failure. I am just back from my 11th successful ascent of Aconcagua. We had 10 out of 12 clients on the summit and again I am reminded that you need to approach this mountain with a semi-professional attitude to training.
The Routes on Aconcagua
Secondly, There are two main routes on Aconcagua and you need to decide which is the route for you. You can read more here about the differences in the route and which would be best route for you to consider.
I personally prefer the Vacas valley traverse route that hikes into Plaza Argentina and crosses the glacier past Ameghino mountain 19,301 feet (5,883 m). This route has epic mountain views right along the Andes range. You can also have stunning views of Punta Consuelo, Cerro Cupula Nevada, Cerro Reichert and Cerro La Mano.
The down side to this route is you need to carry group expedition gear. In saying that you can hire a porter to help with 10kg or 20kg of your personal gear. You can also hire a porter to carry all your expedition gear and personal equipment.
If you would like a free consultation on which route you should consider, contact us today for further information on the best route for climbing Aconcagua.
Living at High Altitude
There is a massive different between going to altitude and living at high altitude. If I took you from sea level to 10,000 feet you may have a light headache, but with good hydration you can adapt quickly. Let’s I took you from sea level to 17,000 feet we would be dead the next day. From sea level to the summit of Mount Everest we would be dead in three minutes.
Altitude is cumulative, the higher you go the worse it gets. If you plan on staying or trying to sleep above 16,000 feet you really need 2 weeks of gradual ascent. This will just allow you to be at this elevation and not long term. Not many people on the planet live permanently above 12,000 feet and acclimatization to 8,000 feet takes years for the body to adjust if you plan to live at this elevation. The production of red blood cells is what is allowing you to be at high altitude and this can take 4 days to adjust to being at 8,000 feet.
Here are a few examples of what I am talking about. If you live in Colorado and hike up to 14,000 feet in one day, but return back home you may experience a headache but you will recover quickly.
On Kilimanjaro we spend most of our time between 10,000 feet and 13,000 feet. Actually going directly to stay at 13,000 / 14,000 feet could be extremely dangerous if you do not ascent gradually over numerous days. On Kilimanjaro just to be able to ascend to 19,341 feet we highly recommend a minimum of 8 days.
On a trek to sleep at Everest Base Camp at 17,200 feet you need a minimum of 10 days. The difference here is that we plan to stay or sleep at higher elevation than Kilimanjaro so you need more time to adjust to sleeping at Higher elevation.
Good acclimatization allows you to climb high and sleep lower and this process aids in the production of red blood cells to carry oxygen.
Aconcagua is a Big Step Up
Climbing Aconcagua is a significant step up from Kilimanjaro, requiring some mountaineering skills and technical experience. Unlike Kilimanjaro’s non-technical trekking routes, Aconcagua demands proficiency in using crampons, navigating steep and exposed terrain, and managing extreme altitude above 18,500 feet.
Climbers should be comfortable with key mountaineering techniques, including using an ice axe, securing themselves on fixed lines, and moving efficiently on steep snow and ice. On Aconcagua there is extreme risk on the 12 hour summit day.
As you probably know most accidents happen on the way down. Aconcagua is steep and you need to be able to reach the summit with 40% left in the tank to get down safely.
Be Technically Aware
Knowledge of essential mountaineering knots and rope systems is also beneficial for safety and success. Proper preparation and prior experience on high-altitude, glaciated peaks are crucial before attempting Aconcagua.
Aconcagua is a much greater endurance challenge than Kilimanjaro. Therefore, we highly recommend that that you have attempted Cotopaxi and Chimborazo before attempting to climb Aconcagua. The ability to manage yourself at extreme altitudes should be your highest consideration, making sure you have the correct altitude experience in place before considering Aconcagua as your next expedition.
You also need to understand the weather on Aconcagua and have tested your gear, equipment and mental against harsh conditions. The weather on Aconcagua can be extreme and you need to have tested yourself in similar conditions. Kilimanjaro really does not offer the same type of extreme weather than Aconcagua can throw at you.
Mountains to Climb Before Aconcagua
In our opinion you need to consider the following mountains to really test yourself, gear and training before stepping foot on Aconcagua.
Kilimanjaro – A high-altitude trek that builds endurance and experience above 16,000 feet. Mount Kilimanjaro offers you experience camping, trekking at high and extreme altitude. On Kilimanjaro you experience a big summit day and serious downhill trekking. It’s also an amazing experience with Kilimanjaro’s Number 1 Guide!
Cotopaxi 19,347 feet & Chimborazo 20,549 feet – After climbing Kilimanjaro, we highly recommend climbing Cotopaxi and Chimborazo before Aconcagua. Cotopaxi and Chimborazo offer steep mountain terrain, with glacier travel and mountaineering training. A lot of our Aconcagua guides also come from Ecuador and have extensive mountaineering and rescue management training.
Other Mountains to Consider
Mera Peak 21,247 feet – Provides multi-day experience at high altitude with technical elements that can prove extremely useful in preparation for Aconcagua. Mera Peak uses a High Camp at 19,028 feet in preparation for the summit attempt. Camp Colera (Camp 3) on Aconcagua is 19,600 feet. The summit day on Mera Peak is not enough close to Aconcagua when it comes to challenging but this trip can serve as great altitude preparation for Aconcagua.
Mount Elbrus – Introduces climbers to crampons, ice axes, and cold-weather mountaineering. Climbing Elbrus offers harsh weather with a serious descent on snow and ice which is harder than moving firm ground. Right now we are not offering this trip in Russia for obvious reasons.
Even More Mountains you Should Consider Before Aconcagua
Lobuche East – Lobuche East 20,075 feet, is a good introduction to higher-altitude mountaineering with mixed terrain. While trekking to Everest would not normally be a stepping stone to Aconcagua the Everest trek with Lobuche East is a useful exercise as this trip offers sleeping at higher altitude similar to Aconcagua. Climbing on steep terrain and more mountaineering exercise.
Mount Toubkal – Toubkal 13,671 feet has relatively low elevation compared to Aconcagua, but teaches cold-weather trekking and basic mountaineering skills and worth the journey to test yourself in a unique location during the winter months.
Ojos del Salado 22,615 feet – Another high-altitude desert peak with extreme weather in South America. We access this mountain via Chile and can be used to shorten your itinerary on Aconcagua, but would length to time you are out on this expedition.
Challenges and Risks of Aconcagua
Altitude & Acclimatization should be your number 1 consideration. We believe our itineraries with 4 nights in Base Camp, alongside a full rest day in Camp 2 18,044 feet serve you as you prepare for the summit of Aconcagua. Proper acclimatization is everything on Aconcagua.
The summit day presents most of the risk on Aconcagua. A normal summit day on Aconcagua starts at 2am, when you wake up and start drinking water, snack and start layering up for the cold. At 3am we serve a light breakfast and offer you 3 liters of water to carry for the 12 hour summit attempt.
You should carry some personal snacks and you will be given a full lunch for the day. A normal plan for the summit would be leave at 4am and reach the summit by mid-day. The goal would be to back in Camp Colera by 4pm.
Hypoxic Preparation for Aconcagua
We strongly recommend following a structured pre-acclimatization plan to improve your chances of success on Aconcagua. Many of our climbers choose to rent a hypoxic tent for a month before their expedition to simulate high-altitude conditions.
Others fly into Quito, Ecuador, to spend a few days hiking local peaks with us, gradually adapting to lower oxygen levels. Some opt to acclimatize in Cusco, Peru, before heading to Argentina, while others prefer to arrive early in the Aconcagua region and train in the surrounding mountains near Aconcagua National Park.
Proper acclimatization significantly reduces the risk of altitude sickness and enhances overall performance on the climb.
Aconcagua Can be Extremely Cold High on the Mountain
While the trek in and out of Aconcagua Base Camp can be extremely hot. Expect cold spearing winds on the summit night and day and varying conditions throughout the whole expedition.
You can track the weather on Aconcagua on the Windy app, Wind Guru, Yr.no or Mountain Forecast and you can review the weather that Aconcagua may have in store for you. It is a good idea to familiarize yourself with the temperatures, winds and weather you can expect to experience on Aconcagua.
Important Reminder
Even if you hire a porter in support of your Aconcagua Expedition. Aconcagua is a much harder proposition than Kilimanjaro. The terrain is stepper on Aconcagua, the expedition is longer than Kilimanjaro and requires more a sustained effort. The terrain on Aconcagua is more challenging and demanding than Kilimanjaro. This varies from month to month depending on ice, snow and movement on rock.
Also remember you will have heavier boots on your feet along with extra weight from your crampons. Remember to factor this into your feet, ankle and leg strength exercises.
1). Normal Route (Northwest Route)
The normal route on Aconcagua is the most popular route but still a serious high-altitude trek and climb with major risks and challenges. In the 2023/ 2024 season the Vacas valley traverse route was closed at short notice in February 2024. This closure forced groups to retreat and move to the normal route.
This was lingered in the minds of climbers when it came to the 2024/ 2025 season. We saw a shift to the normal route and 75% off climbs were on the Normal route and 25% of climbers headed to the Vacas valley traverse route in this past season.
✅ Pros:
1). Non-technical: No glacier travel or technical climbing, making it accessible for strong trekkers.
2). Best rescue options: More infrastructure and evacuation possibilities.
3). More guided support: Most outfitters operate on this route. There is more infrastructure in place with more people and support available.
❌ Cons:
1). Crowds: The busiest route on Aconcagua is the normal route, with more climbers on the trail and at higher camps.
2). Harsh weather exposure: The Base Camp, plaza de Mulas is colder with less early morning sun. The route is very exposed to high winds, especially at higher elevations.
3). Altitude: Climbers must be well acclimatized on the normal route or you need to pick a longer itinerary.
2). The Vacas Valley or Polish Traverse Route
The Vacas Valley into Plaza Argentina Base Camp is a more scenic and varied route that traverses the mountain before joining the Normal Route for the summit push from Camp Colera. Plaza Argentina gets more sunlight in the morning, this route is more protected from the wind and has generally less people on the side of Aconcagua.
✅ Pros:
1). Better acclimatization: The longer approach allows for a more gradual ascent, improving summit success rates.
2). Less crowded: Fewer climbers, especially in the lower sections of the mountain.
3). More scenic: Stunning views of the Polish Glacier and surrounding peaks.
More of a mountaineering challenge: Offers a more remote, expedition-style experience.
❌ Cons:
1). More demanding: Longer route with heavier loads carried by climbers.
2). Harsh weather: The route is more exposed to storms coming from the east.
3). Higher risk factors: Requires navigating glacier terrain and snowfields, depending on conditions.
4). Longer route: Takes more time and logistics than the Normal Route.
Which Route is Right for You?
Choose the Normal Route if you want the simplest, most supported climb with no technical challenges. Choose the vacas valley, Polish Traverse route if you have some prior mountaineering experience, want better acclimatization, and prefer a more scenic, less crowded approach.
Why Climb Aconcagua with Ian Taylor Trekking?
Expert Guides and safety protocols with decades of experience on Aconcagua. Our Vacas valley itinerary offers the best acclimatization on Aconcagua and the route we recommend you consider. Out of 45 climbers this season we had 36 on the summit.
Ian Taylor Trekking has a proven itinerary for success. In addition to our quality Aconcagua itineraries, we have porter support with premium logistics in place.
For a fee, you can access oxygen for the summit attempt on Aconcagua. Our team are available five days a week prior to your arrival in Mendoza. We manage group video calls before the climb to offer our extensive knowledge of years leading tours on Aconcagua. Get in touch today and learn more.