Trip one: Everest Base Camp, Nepal, 2017
September, 2015, I’m rushing with friends to get to the cinema to see Everest, the new blockbuster movie. We’re running late, I hate that, it makes me stressed and anxious. But all that goes away the minute I see those sweeping vistas of the Khumbu region. I was transfixed, and thus began an obsession with Everest, trekking, and mountaineering that would take me to heights I’d never realised.
By chance, after seeing the movie, and becoming entranced with the region, another friend happened to mention they were signed up for a trek with Ian Taylor to go to Everest Base Camp (EBC), and not just go there, but get to sleep a night there, and there was still space on the trip available. My friend and I instantly signed up, for May 2017.
Life Changing
That trip changed me to the core. Months of training leading up to it, using Ian’s guidance for fitness, and Ian and Laura’s guidance for packing had us setting off with Pasang and crew on our first big trek. It was every bit as exciting, difficult, and rewarding as I’d imagined.
Growing up in New Zealand and living in Australia, although with stints in Canada and the UK, my mountain experience was limited to skiing, and a considerable portion of that just with apres ski! Australia has some excellent hikes, but nothing at altitude, and trusting the guides, going slowly slowly, learning to breathe correctly, keeping fluids up, and knowing I’d trained with a weighted backpack on an incline had me puffing me way slowly but surely up the EBC trail.
Life is About Important Moment
Moments I’ll never forget of that trip, the double suspension bridges on the way to Namche, afternoons in bakeries in Namche watching various Everest documentaries, cold showers but not caring, endless cups of GLH (ginger, lemon, honey tea), never failing to be in awe of Ama Dablam’s beautiful peak, passing yaks on the trail, and the friendly nature of all the Sherpas.
I have vague memories of Lobuche, barely wanting to eat, a headache the likes of which I’d never experienced before, but fluids and rest saw me right the next morning (6 years later, I’d return to Lobuche, and watch a friend go through much the same, the Thukla pass is incredible, and tough!).
What an Amazing Place
Arriving into Gorek Shep was an experience all of itself, all I can say is go, see it yourself, it’s a bizarre place, not comfortable by any means, but you have those views of Lhotse and Nuptse, and Everest itself peaking over, and the back and forth of helicopters to distract you, the climb up Kala Pathar 5,645m, and it’s just indescribable. And then, EBC. What a place!
The feeling of reaching there, knowing you’re somewhere not many have been, that’s hard to get to, that has such meaning to the Sherpa people. You could sit there and just take it all in for hours, but you also just want to hug everyone and explore everywhere. Being there in May we could see people going up the Icefall preparing for summit attempts (and while that’s not a goal of mine, it’s nonetheless amazing to see). I left adoring most of all, the Sherpa people, what a charming, likeable, helpful, welcoming people they are.
What’s Next
Post EBC, I knew I’d need a new challenge. I had a whole new relationship with myself. I’d previously had issues with confidence, depression and anxiety, and didn’t like my body. Post-EBC I knew I was strong, that I could achieve things, that my body had gotten me up to that amazing place, that I could be proud. And I didn’t want to let go of that. So I signed up to climb Kilimanjaro in 2019 again with Ian.
Trip Two: Kilimanjaro, Tanzania, 2019
Training begun, and later with new gear sorted (and a slight training hiccup of giving myself sciatica from an improper fitting backpack), and after 3 flights I arrived in Arusha. Once again, I was enchanted by the local people. Setting off on the 8 day Lemosho route, being woken each day by a friendly “hot water, tea” call at our tents, serenaded with song before beginning to hike, and views for days, I was in love.
I don’t know if I’ve ever eaten so well while camping (and honestly, shout out to those wonderful guides who kept me in GF bread, I was eating 6 slices a day and they kept me happy with their fresh food runs!).
Reaching the Summit of Kilimanjaro
Summit night on Kilimanjaro, we woke to insane winds, debate was held, and we decided to set off despite this. Although I knew now how my body reacted to altitude, having dust and stones flung in our faces gave us a new mental and physical challenge as we ascended in the dark. This was where I also discovered my new approach to dealing with the mental task of climbing in the dark in altitude, counting.
Yep, I’d just count to 20, and then start again. It kept my breathing steady, and my brain couldn’t wander off to think about how it all hurt, I’d just zone out, breathe, and count. Arriving at the summit as the sun rose was incredible (I’m running out of adjectives already) and cold. A brief photo, of which in mine my fingers are frozen in place (please, get good gloves!), but when I look at that, I don’t think of the cold first, I think of that feeling, of accomplishment, of being on top of the world, literally and physically.
We Have to Come Down 4,200m from the summit to the Gate!
It was downhill though, that I learnt a new weakness of mine. My knees. Coming down off Kili is a long, long, long, long day. From summit to high camp, it’s mostly scree and you can fairly comfortably slide/step down. From high camp to Mweka camp though is a stone and rock trail, and if you haven’t trained for the downhill, you could be in for some hurts.
My lovely tripmates helped me with my pack, and with my knees strapped, and trekking poles out, I hobbled my way home determined to complete, and stick with the rest of the pack. And man, that first Kilimanjaro beer afterwards tasted like sweet success.
New Friends Were Made
I’d befriended some people on our Kilimanjaro trek, and we decided to get to the Inca Trail together in 2020, and then Covid hit. In 2021 with things opening up again, we looked to Elbrus in Russia instead, deposits were paid and excitement set in, until the Ukraine War started. With guidance from Ian, my friend and I changed to Ecuador, to climb Cotopaxi and Chimborazo, and it’s here I learnt about real mountaineering. Crampons, ice axes, and mountaineering boots, hello, it’s nice to meet you!
Trip Three: Cotopaxi and Chimborazo, Ecuador, 2022
Training for this meant getting some weird looks at the gym (mountaineering boots are pretty noisy on a treadmill!). But I didn’t care, I knew I was about to get that addictive hit soon of the climb, and that’ll keep me going any day. Day after day I’d put my weighted backpack on, and hit the incline treadmill (lacking a stair master at my gym) watching movies to keep me occupied. And this time, I’d learnt from Kilimanjaro, every night before bed, I’d do short bursts of downhill training, on top of my regular training. I was determined to be stronger and have no issues with my knees.
Luxury Trekking and Mountaineering
Ecuador was the most luxurious hiking experience I think I’ll ever have. Stunning day hikes, and then coming back to lodges where someone lights a fire for you so you can fall asleep toasty warm to the flickering of flames, yes please! But also, those day hikes, I can’t pick a favourite, from Pasochoa to Rumiñahui, to going up Cotopaxi (can we talk about a more perfect cone-shaped mountain?) itself for training, it’s the ultimate trip.
Crevasse training in Ecuador for our trip meant using a playground to pull ourselves up with rope, to the astonishment of a nearby child. And then ice axe arrest training up on the slopes of Cotopaxi, with Joaquin and Ian pulling each of us backwards or upside down, down the snowy slopes, so we could learn to dig in.
Do I Have What it Takes?
I thought Kilimanjaro had taught me about mental strength on a mountain, yet Cotopaxi was a whole new ballgame. I was roped up with another woman (and now friend) around my size, who is one of the strongest people I’ve met, and my competitiveness meant I didn’t want to be the weak link.
Cotopaxi is hours of schlepping up a dark mountain, once again I was counting in my head, to 20 in the “easier” parts, and to 3 in the harder parts. We motored up though, and with each step I was glad I’d put the hard yards in for training, it truly is “train hard, climb easy”. We got up so quickly we had to wait just below the summit for sunrise, and it also meant another team member could catch up with us, and allowed for a group summit photo.
The Magic of Cotopaxi Mountain
Cotopaxi summit sat above the clouds, with the volcano steaming away beside us, we got lucky with perfect weather. Photos of me here show me elated yet teary, again, I don’t think a summit will ever not move me to tears.
Coming back down the mountain, I had to stop and get a photo. The most perfect triangular shadow pic of Cotopaxi across the land below. Descent now was fun, I was fit and could enjoy bouncing down, stopping to de-layer every now and then as it warmed up, and take in the views. I vividly remember the last few hundred metres before our destination at the mountain hut, Ian came out (he’d sadly had to return with a client earlier) and cheered us back home, and then tea, and tamales, and a chance to sit down before we headed to Banos for some R&R.
You Need to Visit Banos
After ziplining, some good meals, hot pools, and massages in Banos (such a fun town!) it was decided I’d be the only one to continue on to attempt Chimborazo. Waving goodbye to my new friends (although knowing I’d see some of them back in Quito) Ian, a guide Diego, and I set off. I was apprehensive to say the least. On climbs before I’d had the security of the group to help keep driving me up that mountain, now it was just me. I’d opted for a porter to help me take some of my things up to high camp, and I don’t regret it at all. While I was acclimatised thanks to Cotopaxi, I wanted to preserve all the energy I could to get to a new altitude, and one 400m higher than I’d been before.
High camp was windy, and cold. I have an excellent video of me trying to eat soup and just being in a cloud of steam. The bathroom was memorable, a bucket with a seat and lid behind a small wall of rocks, but hey, that view while on it, wow. We got some shut-eye, and woke to the winds still strong and decided to see how far we could go. The ground was little peaks of ice, and we had to really use the ice axe to keep secure.
The Long Steep Ascent of Chimborazo
Up, up, up we went, winding around rocks, under ice cliffs and at one stage scaling a small rock wall (these bits though, I find so fun!). Then began the slog up the snow to the summit, and still the wind didn’t let up. I struggled again mentally, but kept at it, determined to not let myself down.
Around halfway up, just as I was starting to think “yes, I can do this, I’ve found my rhythm” I felt the ropes tighten and looked up to see Diego and Ian shaking their heads, the wind was getting dangerous, and you must always, always, respect the mountain, so down we went. And hey, at least it meant I got some sleep on a summit night, however briefly, in the tent before we made our way back to Quito.
Getting down is always my goal, and I’d gotten up two mountains, and down two mountains, so for me, another successful trip. I’d again gotten to places not many have gone, that are hard, that are rewarding, and once again I’d learnt things about myself.
Trip Four: Island Peak, Nepal, 2023
Ian had spoken to me about climbing Island Peak as my next challenge, and I was more than keen, getting to go back to the Khumbu region, yes! I realised that one of my best friends back in Australia would love these trips, and with Ian worked out space for her on the EBC portion of this trek.
In March 2024 her and I set off to Nepal together. I’ve made so many good friends on all my trips, Ian truly does get the best people together, and I’ve never worried about heading off as a solo traveller, but getting to go on a trip with a friend from back home was extra special.
Getting to see someone else experience the wonder that is Nepal and the Sherpa people made it twice as rewarding. Countless memories we now share, and a chat group with new friends where we can relive those days, and cheer each other on from round the world as we go about our lives now. This also made it hard to say goodbye at Pheriche, as the EBC crew headed back to Kathmandu, and the Island Peak crew off to Chukung for some training.
Fixed Line Climbing Here We Come!
Island Peak had meant new skills needed to be learnt, once again. I enjoy climbing at the local gym but learning knots and rope skills, watching youtube clips, was my new challenge here. Ladder crossings were the big worry too, how could I prep for those in Australia? I had my usual training routine of weighted-backpack incline treadmills and hikes, as well as my weights, cardio and downhill training, but climbing skills were harder.
Luckily Ian prepares for this, and we spent days at Chukung, crampons on, going back and forth across ladders. If you’ve never done this before, yes, it’s terrifying. You have to sort of lean forward, and trust the rope, leaning into it. If you’ve got smaller feet, such as I do, you can’t put your foot across two ladder rungs, and instead must just balance on one rung. Exhilarating.
Train, Train, Train!
My advice here, train, and train, and train. It pays off being able to change ropes quickly with figure of 8 devices while wearing thick gloves, as well as being able to put crampons on as quickly as possible. You don’t want to be the team member holding people up on a mountain.
After a few days at Chukung and Island Peak base camp we headed up to high camp. A quick detour to dig up crystals off the mountain using our ice axes was a fun way to spend the afternoon, and then summit night arrived. Mental strength again is needed. You start with a few hours slogging up some rock in the dark, and after crampon point and hitting the glacier the sun starts to rise, and the views become apparent.
We luckily only had the one ladder crossing, and eventually crossed the glacier to be able to dump our packs before climbing the headwall. This might be my most favourite thing I’ve ever done. The sun starts to hit you, you’re warming, you’re ascending using your jumar (an ascender for climbing on ropes) in bursts of “1, 2, 3, rest”, and then you get to that summit. It’s tiny! We were squashed together with our guide and Ian leaning back to take photos of us, me teary as per usual!
Get Cleaned Up!
After a long trek from Island Peak back to Namche Bazar, with a stop for at the hairdressers for a much needed wash, we made the decision to helicopter from Namche back to Kathmandu, I’d already done that last bit of hike before so didn’t feel I was missing anything, and also getting to take off from the helipad above the little town was breathtaking.
I’ve loved all my climbs, but Nepal holds something special for me. I feel almost heartsick when I leave, and waving at Ian’s team as the helicopter took off felt like saying goodbye to family. They’re truly the most special.
Trip Five: Inca Trail, Peru, 2024
Needing to feed the addiction, some of my friends from Cotopaxi and I decided to take ourselves for a little holiday to Peru, and do the Inca Trail together. To be honest, after mountaineering I wasn’t sure how to prep physically for the Inca Trail, I knew it may not be as much as mental challenge, but my history with rock roads and my knees had me prepping as much as possible for steps (along with Ian and Laura’s guidance).
More Stairs Please!
Up and down I’d go in the fire exit stairwell of my apartment building. I started listening to music but that made me want to stop when new songs would come on, I switched to podcasts, with comedy ones being a favourite, and apologise to my neighbours who must think I’m the weird girl who walks up and down the stairwells with a backpack on laughing to herself.
The Inca Trail is Magical
I felt amazing on this trek, and being physically strong meant I could just enjoy the incredible history of Peru and the Incan people, around every corner was another amazing view. A particular standout being Phuypatamarka campsite, up above the clouds, looking down towards Machu Picchu mountain, and then the jaunt the next morning up to a burial site hill nearby.
Friends ask me how this trip was, and my first answer is always “I’ve never looked at so many rocks and said “wow!”” The engineering is unbelievable, that it’s lasted 500 years and still looks brand new, not to mention the feats to get the rocks from quarries, in place, and lined up with solstices. It feels magical, and Machu Picchu as a site is breathtaking, pictures cannot compete.
Trip Six: Aconcagua, Argentina, 2025
Aconcagua is the next goal, it’s big step up again physically, and mentally. And while I’ll prep as much as I can, I’m just happy to be able to get to experience what I can. I’m competitive, and want to do it all, but also I have a heavy respect for the mountains and we’ll see what happens on the trip. I’m excited for the challenge.
Each trip teaches me something new about myself, about cultures, about other people, about mountains, about nature. It’s not about ticking off summits for me so much as it is experiencing new things, putting myself out there, seeing what I can do, meeting new people, learning. None of it would be possible without the wonderful, wonderful people from each area, all with so much love and respect for their region, their ecosystem, and history,
Why Go To The Mountains?
People often ask me, what do I like most about climbing mountains, why do I do it? All I can say is that it’s the ultimate in achieving goals. Months of training, hard work, letting go of comforts while you’re out there, being ok with wearing the same clothes and having baby-wipe showers, having the mental strength to keep chipping away (it is truly a mental game as much as it is physical).
Step by step getting up those summits, sitting there (likely having a cry if you’re me!), getting back down and having the crew cheer you into camp, sitting down for that first cup of tea, knowing you’ve just accomplished something, it’s addictive.
Natalie Parton, 8 years of adventures with Ian Taylor Trekking.