Here are 20 things to know before climbing Aconcagua. Climbing Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Americas, is a formidable challenge that requires excellent acclimatization and physical preparation. With over 15 years of experience leading expeditions to this 6,962-meter (22,841 feet) summit, I’m here to share the essential tips that will help you get the most out of your Aconcagua climb. Contact us for further information and check out all our upcoming trips.
There are Two Main Routes
When deciding between the Normal Route, Traverse Route, or the challenging Polish Glacier route on Aconcagua, it’s important to consider your climbing goals. Do you want to experience as much of the mountain as possible. Are you seeking a tougher challenge to prepare for even bigger climbs? Are you looking to carry less weight and just give the summit a shot?
If you’re looking for the most straight forward Aconcagua ascent, the Normal Route may be best for you. However, if you’re testing high-altitude, and how you perform carrying more weight at altitude for a trip like Denali or Mount Everest, the Vacas valley traverse route is for you. Aconcagua is an expedition that can push your limits at extreme altitude, the Polish traverse might offer the ultimate challenge for you. There are pros and cons to both routes. Learn more.
Top Tips For Climbing Aconcagua
These Aconcagua tips are based on 20 years of expertise climbing this formidable peak. As someone who has climbed Everest, summited 6 of the 7 summits, and led over numerous successful expeditions to Aconcagua, I can assure you that acclimatization and preparation are key to success on this challenging mountain.
1). Acclimatization is Everything
Acclimatization is critical on Aconcagua due to its extreme altitude. Most climbers spend 16-20 days on the mountain to allow their bodies to adjust. The risk of Altitude Sickness (AMS) is very real, and symptoms like headaches, dizziness, and nausea can turn a summit dream into a dangerous situation. Our itinerary includes extra acclimatization days to ensure a safer, more successful attempt on Aconcagua.
2). Choose the Right Route
Aconcagua offers multiple routes to the summit. The Normal Route is the most popular, offering a non-technical climb but demanding good fitness and altitude tolerance. The Polish Glacier Route is more technical and requires fixed lines. The polish glacier is a real mountaineering route.
The Vacas valley traverse route is a more challenging climb, as you carry more weight. There are less people on this route and Base Camp is warmer than the normal out. Carefully choosing the right route based on your skill level and goals is critical for both safety, enjoyment and success.
3). Prepare for Harsh and Unpredictable Weather
Aconcagua is infamous for its unpredictable weather, especially in the upper camps. Aconcagua sits in a high desert, so the climate is extremely dry. On the way to Base Camp, you can experience searing heat and cooler temperatures at night. If can be 80F on the way to Base Camp and then -18°C (0F) at Camp 3, Camp Colera and colder higher up with the wind chill.
Storms, high winds, and temperatures as low as -30°C (-22°F) can occur. It’s crucial to be prepared for sudden weather changes on Aconcagua. Make sure you bring high-quality, cold-weather gear, including -29 C (-20F) sleeping bag, the correct layers, down gear, gloves and layers. Watch our packing video and we provide a 40 page dossier, with itemized kit list on signing up.
4). Training for the Ascent
Aconcagua requires a high level of physical conditioning and excellent endurance. It’s not just about being able to hike up; you need to have the endurance to keep going for long hours, on steep terrain at High and extreme altitude. Learn more.
Incorporate endurance training, hiking with a weighted backpack, training for the downhill and specific gym training. Hypoxic training right before your trip is also a very useful tool. After climbing Aconcagua 10+ times I can tell you a lot of people underestimate this mountain. You need to be physically prepared for the long days carrying weight on the mountain.
We recommend a step-by-step approach to climbing Aconcagua and here is our advice as you prepare for your Aconcagua expedition.
5). Prepare for the Descent
Carrying heavy can put a lot of strain on your knees and legs. Downhill training is crucial, as fatigue during the descent can lead to accidents. Include lots of downhill training in your preparation to make sure your body can handle the challenge. Obviously hiking downhill with weight at a similar angle to Aconcagua will be the best preparation alongside specific let strengthening exercises.
The descent days on Aconcagua are more direct on steep terrain. This means you need excellent leg strength for these descent days. Coming down from 6,962 meters to 4,400m over two days and then a long 15mile hike to the road for the drive back to Mendoza is no easy task, especially after multiple days of carrying heavy weight at high altitude.
6). Packing Strategically is Key
Packing light yet effectively is essential. The temperatures vary greatly between base camp and the summit, so layering is critical. You’ll need a -20°F (-27°C) down sleeping bag, an insulated down parka, and high-quality double mountaineering boots and expedition mitts.
Make sure your gear is of high quality, lightweight and appropriate for extreme conditions. Also make sure you have tested each piece of kit on other mountains and at home. Watch our Aconcagua packing video.
Pro Tip: It is important to weight all the gear and kit that you will be carrying above Base Camp. I have seen people at Base Camp with anywhere from 13kg to 20kg of personal gear to move up through the camps and back to Base Camp. Know the exact weight you will be carrying on above Base Camp.
7). Hiring a Reputable Guide Service
Hiring an experienced guide service is crucial for success on Aconcagua. Our guides are full time mountaineers, and we send professional guides from Ecuador, USA and Nepal. All our guides are highly trained in dealing with altitude, weather, and safety on Aconcagua.
A good guide will monitor your acclimatization, manage camps, and ensure that everyone stays safe. They will also not allow team members ascend when there is a risk to themselves and other team members.
We have a 90% success rate on Aconcagua when the weather allows us reach the summit. This success on Aconcagua comes from careful planning and the best guides in the business.
8). Hydration is Critical
Dehydration at altitude increases the risk of AMS and can sap your energy. On Aconcagua, the dry air, increased respiration and exertion can cause rapid fluid loss, so you need to stay hydrated.
Drink at least 4 liters of water a day and use electrolyte supplements to maintain your body’s salt balance. Keeping hydrated helps prevent headaches, fatigue, and other altitude-related issues. Learn more about why hydration is critical at high altitude. We recommend have nuun tablets, liquid IV or similar for daily use.
9). Nutrition Plays a Vital Role
Fueling your body in your training and on Aconcagua is just as important as hydration. High-altitude trekking requires a diet rich in carbohydrates, proteins, and healthy fats. Learn more.
You’ll need plenty of snacks like nuts, energy bars, and dried fruits to sustain your energy levels on long days. I like using Clif shot blocs on the summit night.
10). Rest is Just as Important as Climbing
Rest days in your training are so important and essential part of the acclimatization process on Aconcagua. They allow your body to adjust to the altitude while you recover from the physical strain of carrying heavy weight at High Altitude.
Sleep is often difficult at high altitude. You need to consider taking Diamox, you need to consider having ibuprofen and manage your hydration correctly. Also make sure to bring earplugs and eye masks to improve sleep quality in the busy camps.
11). Mental Toughness is Key
The climb is as much a mental challenge as it is a physical one. Aconcagua’s altitude and harsh environment can wear you down. I feel the mental toughness comes from hours of physical preparation. It also comes from having the correct attitude and mindset. You need to hit the wall in your training and feel uncomfortable as you prepare for an Aconcagua expedition.
On the mountain you need to stay positive, break the journey into smaller, manageable steps, and lean on your teammates for support.
Remember you need to conserve energy for the final days of the trip. Do everything slowly and be in no rush to go high on the mountain. Patience and having a relaxed attitude aid your summit success. Your mental preparedness will be tested on the summit night and day on Aconcagua. This long, tough, challenging 12-hour event requires a relaxed approach. The better prepared you are the easier the ascent and descent will be.
12). Layering is Essential
The temperature on Aconcagua fluctuates greatly between the trek into Base Camp, between camps and high on the mountain. Layering and having the correct lightweight equipment is the best way to manage the changing temperatures.
Make sure you stay covered up from the sun as much as possible. Wear a sun hoody, cover your hands, legs and do not get sun burnt.
Higher on the mountain, start with a moisture-wicking base layer, I use 260 merino. I then add a down vest. Then add insulating layer like a Patagonia nano jacket. On top of these three layers you can add a down parka. As an outer layer you may need a wind proof jacket that goes over all these layers.
13). Invest in High-Quality Footwear
Your feet will be your most valuable asset on Aconcagua. Invest in high-quality mountaineering boots that are insulated and compatible with crampons. If you are joining one of our trips, we require double mountaineering boots.
These will protect your feet from the extreme cold and provide the support needed for the rugged terrain.
14). Know the Symptoms of Altitude Sickness
Altitude sickness can hit anyone at any time, regardless of fitness level. Be aware of the symptoms, which can include headaches, dizziness, nausea, shortness of breath and confusion. We have seen HAPE and HACE at Aconcagua Base Camp and above.
If symptoms worsen, you must descend. From my experience things do not improve. Listen to you body and if the guides tell you to turn around you must follow their instructions.
We carefully monitor all climbers and provide emergency oxygen if needed, but it’s essential to recognize the signs early. Learn more.
15). Respect Your Guides
Your guide’s knowledge and experience are invaluable. They know the mountain’s risks, dangers and the safest way to approach the summit. The guides are there to manage the pace and safety of each climber.
They are not there to be told what to do. Respect their decisions, especially if they advise you to descend for your own safety. We are trying to develop a team of climbers, not individuals.
As we approach an Aconcagua expedition as a team, you need to respect the team and don’t add risk. Be a team player.
16). Respect the Mountain
I can assure you that Aconcagua is a worry opponent and you will find out if you go high on this mountain. Aconcagua is a protected area, and we follow strict Leave No Trace principles.
Carry out all waste and do not litter. Be respectful of the fragile environment, especially at the higher camps where the ecosystem is most vulnerable.
17). Sleeping Above 4,000m
Sleep becomes increasingly difficult at high altitude. The higher you go, the harder it is for your body to rest and recover. Ensure you have a comfortable sleeping system and consider using Ibuprofen or other medications to aid sleep at altitude.
18). Getting to Mendoza and Permits
Your Aconcagua expedition starts in Mendoza, Argentina. If you are on one of our trips we will pick you up from the airport and escort you to the Diplomatic Hotel. Our team in Colorado will have secured your permit before arrival in Mendoza, we will do all the paperwork needed to secure this permit to climb.
The permit cost varies depending on the season, so plan ahead and secure it early. From Mendoza, you’ll head to Puenta del Inca or Penitentes, the staging area for the climb.
19) Be Prepared for Summit Day
I have climbed Everest, Kilimanjaro 40+ times and I can tell you that Aconcagua is much tougher than Kilimanjaro. Summit day on Aconcagua is long and demanding. We normally start in the dark at 5am and you will not return to the camp until 5pm.
Initially the terrain is straight forward as you spend the first three hours to reach Independencia. It takes another 2 hours 30 minutes to reach the cave and another 2 hours to reach the summit of Aconcagua. With breaks it normally takes 8 hours to reach the summit of Aconcagua. We start early to avoid most of the cold and to have visibility as we reach the traverse to the Cave and going through the Canaleta.
The altitude will be extreme above 22,000 feet. Make sure you are well-acclimatized, have plenty of food and water, and have layered appropriately. Summit success depends on careful preparation and patience.
While mules carry gear to base camp, porters are available for higher camps. Our porter services ensure clients can focus on the climb rather than being weighed down by heavy loads. Contact us for further information.
20. Why Choose Ian Taylor Trekking?
With 20 years of experience on Aconcagua, Ian Taylor Trekking has developed an exceptional program tailored to both novice and experienced climbers. Our success is built on expert guidance, acclimatization strategies, and personalized support, ensuring you’re in the best hands for a successful summit.
Sign up and gain access to our 40 page dossier with all the details you need to know about being successful on Aconcagua. We look forward to guiding you on Aconcagua and hope this guide was useful as you plan your Aconcagua expedition.
Contact us and learn more about how to prepare for the adventure of a lifetime, trusting in the expertise and proven track record of Ian Taylor Trekking.