Top 10 tips for climbing Mera Peak

If you have decided to climb Mera Peak, and you put in the preparation and commitment to reach the summit, you will not be disappointed, as the views from the top of Mera Peak are absolutely stunning!  If you sign up to one of our climbs we are available 5 days a week helping you prepare for the adventure. If you are thinking of taking on this challenge, watch our Mera Peak video and then read our Top 10 Tips for climbing Mera peak below: 

1). Be comfortable with camping: On the Mera Peak trip, you will be sleeping in tents out in the elements most of the nights along the way.  You will need to be prepared to sleep 17 nights in the great outdoors!  The weather can vary drastically, with a wide range of conditions: from warm to cold or windy and snowy. You need to be comfortable with setting up tents, being capable and proficient at managing your camp craft, and be able to maintain a good level of hygiene in a camping environment.

2). Have the right clothing: Mera peak can throw out a mix of weather at any time of the year. The weather is never guaranteed to be stable, so you need to be experienced and ready for a range of weather conditions.  This means that you need to make sure that you have the right mountaineering boots and gear required for this cold and hostile environment. CLICK HERE for our Mera Peak packing video. There is no one size fits all when it comes to gear, so we think that the best option is to seek out our advice on an individual basis to make sure you have the right gear for the time of year you plan on climbing Mera Peak. CONTACT US or call us on Skype (ian10035), as we are happy to cover all aspects of the equipment and kit needed for climbing Mera Peak.

3). When to Climb Mera Peak: We recommend climbing Mera Peak in Late April, May, September or October. We find that when we climb on Mera Peak, generally the best months are May and October. If you decide to climb in late March, early April or late October into November you need to be ready for colder conditions, which may include more snow. Therefore, you will need to adjust your gear and equipment to suit the colder weather conditions you will encounter on the Mera Peak climb.

4). Specific conditioning is needed: You are about to climb into the lower realm of the death zone at 5,500m/ 18,044ft.  Above this height, nothing can survive; your digestive system is starting to shut down and your body is literally dying.  In saying this, you can adapt enough to the low levels of oxygen, but you need the right acclimatization schedule and to have done the right training. Climbing Mera peak requires excellent physical conditioning and you need to have been training months in advance before the climb. You will have a long trek into Khare and Mera peak base camp, which will require you to have come with a lot of previous hiking experience. Our summit day is on day 15 so we have excellent acclimatization. You need to be training with a backpack on, out in the hills if possible, building from 3 to 6 hours of hiking up and down hills building from 6 to 15 kgs (13lbs to 33lbs) of weight on your bag. You should also be out doing multi-day hiking to prepare your body for day after day of strenuous activity. You should also consider a weights program to build up strength in your lower back, calf’s, quads and to help improve your overall body strength training 4/5 times a week. If you sign up to one of our Mera Peak climbs we will be available to you to help you prepare fully for the climb.

5). Pick the right acclimatization schedule: Have a look at our itinerary, we have 13 days acclimatization before we head up to high camp at 5,800m/ 19,028ft and onto the summit at 6,476m/ 21,246ft. Do not under estimate the acclimatization schedule. Yes you can save money by cutting out days and you will see a range of prices for the trip, however, this is not always going to be the best decision for your safety or for your chance of success on the climb. We always have a western guide along with a quality acclimatization schedule, including 3 nights in Khare 5,100m with quality training provided before moving higher. We also have additional days in reserve in case of the weather being poor. All these elements give you the best possible chance at making a safe and successful summit of Mera Peak and we have the team and schedule in place to make this happen.

6). Have previous altitude experience: Don’t try to attempt climbing Mera Peak as your first altitude or mountaineering experience. You need to know how your body reacts at 5,000m before going to higher extreme altitudes. We recommend as much hiking, trekking and multi-day altitude experience as possible before taking on this challenge. Your previous experience will help you prepare and understand how your body adapts to low oxygen environments. Only by having this knowledge and experience should you consider tackling higher altitudes and climbing Mera Peak.

7). Manage your personal hygiene & health: As you will be in a wilderness region and away from real medical care, you need to bring your own personal medical kit along with antibiotics and items you deem necessary for living in a cold and wilderness region. We will be camping for days on end and possibly running into very few people until we arrive in villages like Khote, Tangnang and Khare. You will need to keep your hands, feet and body clean on the journey and remember to use hand sanitizer at all times.  We also recommend that you use a nail brush to keep your nails clean and have nail clippers and have factor 50 sun cream and do not get sun burned on the trip, as managing your personal hygiene can be the difference between success and failure on a long wilderness trip. Having previous camping and wilderness experience will also help you on the journey. We also recommend you talk to us about this element of the trip and how best to manage yourself in a wilderness camping environment.

8). Think about additional winter skills training: You will be attached to other climbers walking Alpine style in unison on this route, and you will be crossing a glacier with crevasse fields.  You will be managing your breathing and temperature in a low oxygen environment, so if you can be proficient in using crampons, harness, and an ice axe before arriving to climb Mera Peak, this will give you additional experience and confidence going into your Mera Peak adventure. We have training courses in Scotland but there are a range of other regions for training around the world. We can help you get this additional training.

9). Have broken in trekking and mountaineering boots: Having the right footwear is vital to success. Having the wrong footwear could ruin your trip, and you will need both trekking boots and mountaineering boots for a Mera Peak ascent. They will both need to be worn in before you start your journey to Mera Peak and you need to make sure you are training with your mountaineering boots on as they will use different muscles and are heavier then your trekking boots. Do make the extra effort to train with your mountaineering boots and it will pay off when you are on the mountain.

10). Make sure you have a qualified climbing guide: There are a lots of companies out there who offer the Mera Peak climb, and many of these companies will promise the world, but who have limited climbing experience, are not able to fix ropes or know how to manage people at high altitude. You need to make sure you have a western guide and climbing Sherpa who can fix ropes, manage training in Khare, pace the team and bring you safely up and down Mera Peak. We bring our own ropes up the mountain and fix them on the final summit pitch. We also use a high camp at 5,800m/ 19,028ft, which gives you the best possible chance at a safe and successful climb on Mera Peak.

If you are interested in a Mera Peak climb, or would like some more information from us, please get in touch at www.iantaylortrekking.com

2 thoughts on “Top 10 tips for climbing Mera Peak

  1. Hello, under Previous Mountaineering Experience it reads to determine your bodies reaction above 5000 meters. I live in California and we do not have, anywhere in the lower 48 states, any peaks above 14,500′. What is your suggestion to prepare for climbing above 5000 meters? Thank you, Dean Bowen

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