Island peak is a climb not a trekking peak

Island peak is a climb not a trekking peak. The reality is Island peak is technical, not easy and requires you to come prepared with the right training, as your safety should be your number one concern.

I am just back from my 14th and 15th Island peak climbs and we had great success once again. 100% on both trips. We achieve great success for a number of reasons. Most because we have professional guides helping each person reach their potential. We fix our own ropes to the summit so we are not delayed by other climbers on the potentially dangerous fixed ropes that are already there. We also have the best available information to our clients helping them come fully prepared. Read some REVIEWS from our trips.

Island peak is a climb not a trekking peak. 

Island peak is a climb not a trekking peak

If you climb in the warmer months you should not be worries about the cold. You do need to be ready for the physical and technical challenges that Island peak presents. The temperature in early October 2018 were very warm merino and fleece, no gloves on the summit and by late October on my 15th summit attempt the temperature were -15 Celsius. Only 4 weeks later I was wearing 4 layers and black diamond guide gloves on the summit. Remember to assess your gear for the time of year you plan to climb Island peak. CONTACT US and set up a time to chat about the trip.

Island peak is a climb not a trekking peak. 

Island peak is a climb not a trekking peak

1). Island peak is technical on one day out of the trip that doesn’t mean you should not come prepared for this challenge. Your safety and the safety of our staff and team members is really important. So first things first. You need to be proficient in abseiling using a figure of 8 and be comfortable moving between fixed lines on a 60 to 70-degree angle.  When you cross the glacier you will be roped together as a team but with you are climbing and descending you well be responsible for your safety. It is critical to come physically and technically prepared.

Island peak is a climb not a trekking peak. 

Island peak is a climb not a trekking peak

2). We use a high camp at 5,500m/ 18,000 feet to give you the best chance at reaching the summit and having the energy to not make mistakes in this extreme altitude.  Don’t believe the people who say they don’t use high camp because there is no water. They just don’t have the staff available to fetch water for you. Using high camp improves you chances of success. We run 6 scheduled Island peak climbs per year and a few private itineraries and are all led by our own highly competent guides. We also use the high camp on Island peak so we can stay ahead of other people and summit early and get down as quickly as possible before weather can roll in. By using the high camp this gives you a far better chance at successfully reaching the summit and back down safely.

Island peak is a climb not a trekking peak. 

Island peak is a climb not a trekking peak

3). We fix our own ropes on the head wall of Island peak.  I have seen so many accidents on the head wall in recent years. I have seen people trying to abseil using the Jumar. I have seen people fall and break arms and legs. I have also seen people turn around because their guides did not have any rope with them. What a waste of time. This year I saw more shocking use of the fixed lines. On the first climb there were a few people just hanging off the ropes and half the people going up there didn’t make it onto the glacier. On the second climb I was shocked to see 18 people on the same rope on one fragile anchor point. I know Island peak is for amateur climbers but people do need to understand the risk they are taking when they clip onto a rope that is dangerous. I could see locals un-clipping from the rope. Thank god we had our own rope fixed for us and we could safely climb and abseil away from the madness on the already fixed lines.

Island peak is a climb not a trekking peak. 

Island peak is a climb not a trekking peak

4). We have our own full time staff on the ground who manage each climb. Our head guide Ang Kami Sherpa was show cased in the recent Sherpa documentary. He has been climbing on Everest for over a decade and in 2014 decided the risk was too high and came to work with us full time. He is a world class climber, leader and guide. A trusted friend and now family member. He has climbed Everest, Cho Oyu. Many 8,000m peaks, Ama Dablam 8 times and Island peak over 80 times and so many more. Ang Kami has two children and loves climbing and leads all of our Island peak climbs, come and climb with him and learn from his vast experience.

Island peak is a climb not a trekking peak. 

Island peak is a climb not a trekking peak

5). Lastly Island peak requires excellent physical preparation. We can help you understand all aspects of the climb so you can apply or knowledge to your training. This will give you a safer and best experience possible. CONTACT US and let’s chat. We have run over 80 Island peak climbs. In 2018 we had 100% on 6 out of 7 climbs. We want people to get the most out of their Himalayan climbing experience and to enjoy, learn and have a life changing experience.

 

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