Climbing Huascaran in Peru

Climbing Huascaran in Peru, is a mountaineering dream.  Huascaran is the highest mountain in Peru. Huascaran standing at 6,768m/ 22,205 feet tall. A giant of the Andes mountains. The ascent normally takes 21 days. The main difficulties being the large crevasses that often block the route to the summit. Before climbing Huascaran in Peru we advise adding an ascent above 5,000m/ 16,404 feet to give additional acclimatization. We do this on Mt. Pisco, Yanapaccha, Vallunaraju and Ishinca prior to heading high on Huascaran. We include continuous training support and advice along with our booklet on the climb.

We have a great professional climbing team based in Huaraz, Peru. We have lead numerous group climbs in Huascaran.  Ian has climbed Everest to the top and lead 20+ trips to Peru.  This region of Peru is similar to the Himalaya’s. Giant jagged peaks, in unique and untouched settings.  If you are looking to go higher climbing Huascaran in Peru should be on your bucket list of mountains to climb. Huascaran is accessible to you if you have completed our Everest Base camp, Kilimanjaro and Mera peaks. You could aso consider doing one of our Scottish winter skills courses or Alpine training weeks.

A little bit more about our Climbing Huascaran in Peru

Before undertaking any serious climb in Peru, you need an acclimatization schedule to match the elevation gain. Check out our itinerary below. Our normal schedule adds in the climb of Pisco 5,750m/ 18,864 feet. This is a classic combination between trek and
climbing expedition.

We will trek the Santa Cruz Trek is one very popular and short treks in to the Cordillera Blanca with spectacular views of the surrounding mountains, crystalline water and
lakes with two high passes like Punta Union at 4,750m/ 15,583 feet. and Portachuelo Pass at 4,770m/ 15,649 feet. The climb of Pisco mountain at 5,750m/ 18,864 feet does not required you to have previous mountaineering or technical ability, but we recommend it along with previous high altitude trekking experience.

The preparation for Climbing Huascaran in Peru does require you to reach the elevation of 5750m/ 18,864 feet on Pisco mountain, before moving on to climb Huascaran at 6,768m/ 22,205 feet.

The trails are not that challenging, but the altitude is, so coming physically prepared is paramount. Once you come prepared you will be treated to world class mountain views Pisco mountain. You will see you views of your ultimate goal of Huascaran and other peaks like Huangoys, Artesonraju, Yanapaccha and Chopocalqui.

After do Santa Cruz Trek and Pisco Climb, the group will be acclimatized and ready to climb Huascaran. Huascaran is the highest mountain in Peru and the fourth highest
peak in the whole of the American continent. Huascaran is surrounded by peaks
reaching over 5,000m/ 16,404 feet of height in the Cordillera Blanca which offers of the most stunning climbing and scenery found anywhere else of the world. If you considering joining one of our Climbing Huascaran in Peru you need have gone on one of our winter skills courses, had previous multi-day high altitude trekking and mountaineering experience. The best month for Climbing Huascaran in Peru are June, July and August.
Prices start from $5,500.
Read more review of Ian Taylor Trekking 

 What people said

“While climbing Island peak with Ian in 2011. I found my passion for mountaineering. I was well prepared for Island peak and wanted to keep that momentum going I wanted to climb higher and wanted to climb in South America. I was not interested by Aconcagua but Huascaran had world class scenery, amazing trekking and climbing two peaks above 18,000 feet was very appealing. Ian had amazing support and great guides who made the trip a success and very special. Once again the acclimatization program made all the difference.” Shana Torres, Huascaran 2012
“I have trekked and climbed for 10 years and been on many treks and mountaineering trips over the years.  Ian Taylor Trekking was the best service I have witnessed. The guides, service, advise and professional approach the trip was second to none. The personal touch was greatly appreciated. The extra acclimatization was needed.” Shelly smith, Huascaran 2012
Day 1

Fly to Lima Peru. You can be picked up from the airport and drive to Huaraz at 3,052m/ 10,013 feet. We will do private transfer for groups arriving in Lima.

Day 2

Fly Today will be an acclimatization day near Huaraz and we will aim to get up to 3,500m/ 11,500 feet and then back to Huaraz where you can pick up some last minute items for the journey ahead.

Day 3

From Huaraz

Day 4

Today will be used as an acclimatization day as we need to adjust to the low oxygen levels.  We will take a stroll up to the Sherpa Museum and learn about Local area, Khumbu or Everest region, the Sherpa people and much more. We will aim to climb high and sleep low. The museum is just below 3,600m/ 11,800 feet. We will stay there for a while to gain the additional acclimatization needed for going higher. We will return to our lodge in Namche for lunch. The afternoon can be spent sampling the delights of the Namche bakery! or playing pool in Cafe Danfe. You can also visit Kancha Sherpa, he is the last remaining Sherpa climber from the 1953 Everest Expedition.

Day 5

We will spent as another day in and around Namche. We will take a hike up to Shangbouche hill (3,900m/ 12,800ft) with stunning panoramic views of the whole Everest Region. During this critical acclimatization phase, we will spend time resting and trekking to higher altitudes to aid in the process. This will allow our bodies to become acclimatized to the altitude of (3,440m/ 11,286ft). After this breath taking hike we will returning to Namche for lunch. The afternoon can be walking the back streets of Namche, sample the delights of the bakery or playing pool in Cafe Danfe. You must keep well hydrated drinking 4 to 5 liters of water per day. 440m/ 1,443 feet elevation gain today.

Day 6

Trek to Tengbouche at (3,900m/12,800ft). From Namche the Everest trail contours around the side of the valley high above the Dudh Kosi. As we follow the path, we will get our first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu: Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. We descend down to our lunch stop passing by several small villages and numerous tea shops, we will cross the Dudh Kosi River. After our break we will make the long climb on a dusty zig zag trail. This hike up to Tengbouche should take about two hours. Tengbouche is home of an impressive and rebuilt monastery. We have plenty of time to look around Tengbouche (and have a cake at the bakery!). We will stay at a new lodge across from the monastery. From the Lunch spot to Tengbouche is a 2 hour 600m/ 2,000 feet elevation gain.

Day 7

Today we will trek to Dingboche. We will make an initial descent down through Rhododendron trees the trail crosses a new suspension bridge just beyond Deboche. An hour’s walking from here will bring us to Pangboche, an excellent viewpoint for Ama Dablam which was badly damaged in the recent earthquake. Contouring up the valley side, we will re-cross the river and turn up the Imja Valley to reach the picturesque farming village of Dingboche at (4,410m/ 14,465ft). There are a few internet cafes, some nice lodges and some new bakery’s.  It is important to keep hydrated and relax for the rest of the day.

Day 8

Today is spent as another acclimatization day. We will make an morning ascent of the ridge which sits behind Dingbouche and we will try and ascend up to (4,900m/16,000ft) This acclimatization hike gives us great views of Ama Dablam (6,856m/22,495ft), Island Peak (6,189m/ 20,305ft) and Tabuche (6,367m/ 20,890ft) We will descend back to Dingbouche for the afternoon. While in Dingboche, you can attend a seminar about high altitude acclimatization at the hospital in nearby Pheriche (4,200/13,780ft) run by the Himalayan Rescue Association. The walk over to Pheriche and back will also serve as good acclimatization training. Watch some footage. We will gain 500m/ 1,640 feet elevation gain today. Remember you also have to come back down.

Day 9

Trekking to Lobuche starts off easy and early in the day. We will continue along the trail up on a platform above the valley floor. This will lead us up towards Dugla. Ahead of us is the trekking peak of Lobuche East (6,119m/ 20,075ft), and to our left is the formidable north face of Tabuche, the scene of many cutting-edge Himalayan ascents of the 1980s and 1990s. After three hours we reach the small collection of busy lodges at Dugla (4,620m/15,153ft). After lunch we continue the walk up the steep hill to the Sherpa memorials, there are outstanding views of Ama Dablam, Cholatse and Tabuche. From Dugla, the trail starts steeply up towards the glacier moraine, levels out and after a few hours the trail eventually leads to a small cluster of tea houses pleasantly situated at Lobuche (4,940m/16,207ft). Everest base camp lies 1,000 ft above this point.

Day 10

Trek to Gorak Shep. We will start early this morning. About three hours beyond Lobuche we reach Gorak Shep (5,180m/17,126ft), the site of the 1953 Everest Expedition’s base camp. We will be sleeping here tonight on return from Everest Base Camp. We will fill up with more water and continue the famous trail to Everest Base Camp. Some treks climb Kala Pattar (5,545m/ 18,188ft) on this afternoon and head to Everest Base Camp the following morning. If heading into Everest Base Camp, we will need to be careful as there is a chance of some small rock fall on our left as we move onto the Khumbu Glacier. This is it,  you will walk the final section of your Everest Base Camp trek, walk around base camp, go to the edge of the Khumbu Ice fall. If you are trekking in from the end of March to May you will meet some of the climbing teams preparing to summit the world’s highest mountain and experience this magical place, before leaving Everest base camp and back to Gorak Shep which may take 2 hours. This is a 8/9 hour hiking day. Watch some footage.

Day 11

Today we will either make the ascent of Kala Pattar at (5,545m/ 18,188ft) (this can also be done on the day before) It is highly recommended to make this ascent of Kala Phattar. This famous view point of Everest is dramatic, stunning and one of the most spectacular mountains views you will ever see. Fingers crossed for great views over Everest. The climb takes 3 hours and can be hard work towards the top, but the effort is rewarded by the classic view of Everest and the Khumbu Icefall, as well as Lhotse, Nuptse, and Pumori immediately above. You will also see the full Everest base camp trek from the Everest memorial all the way to Everest Base Camp. This view of Everest will leave you inspired, maybe change your life in simple, small and in ways you never imagined. From the morning summit we will return to Gorak shep, pack your bags and move down the trail back to Pheriche (4,200m/13,780ft) or Dingbouche (4,410m/14,465ft). The trek up and down Kala Phatar should take 3 hours. From Gorak Shep to Pheriche or Dingbouche is 5/6 hours.

Day 12

Trek to Tengbouche (3,900m/12,800ft). We will retrace our steps down past Pangbouche and return down the Khumbu Valley, stopping for plenty of breaks and pictures on route to Tengbouche. We will cross the river and start the slow 20 minute ascent back up to Tengbouche where we will spend the night. There is an opportunity to revisit the Monastery or hang out in the bakery. This is a 4/5 hour trek.

Day 13

We will try and make an early start and make the journey back to Namche Bazaar. We will make the long decent back down the dusty hill toward the valley crossing and start a steep ascent back up the other side of the valley, passing some of the small villages and top out at our lunch spot with some amazing lunch views of Thamserku. We will continue the traverse along the side of the mountain and drop back into Namche bazaar. You can spend the rest of the day playing pool and celebrate your success in cafe Danfe. This is a 3/4 hour trek.

Day 14

Trek to Lukla. Leave Namche by 9am for a long seven hour trek back to Lukla, we will cross bridges and see the Khumbu valley from a different view on the return journey. We arrive back to Lukla where we stay the night as flights only leave early the following morning. This is a 7/8 hour trek.

Day 15

Your Everest base camp trek is over and time to fly back to Kathmandu early in the morning and spend the rest of the day at Leisure in Kathmandu or fly back to your home destination.  For those eager to see as much of Kathmandu as possible, an early start is worthwhile to visit the temples of Pashupatinath and Swayambhunath and districts of Bhaktapur and Patan as the rebuilding happens. Durbar Square is also on the essential list, as is the shopping area of Thamel.

Day 16

Do some last minute shopping and take a trip to the Kathmandu spa before being dropped off at the airport and your return journey home. Your Everest Base Camp Trek is offer. Time to start planning your next adventure.


Ready to go?

Does this information excite you to take the next step towards achieving your goals of Climbing Huascaran in Peru. If so, get in touch today.  We pride ourselves on making sure that our clients have every opportunity to succeed in the mountains, including professional training advice, gear lists and video links on how to pack your bag, and much more.  Our Everest base camp trek will not disappoint. We are always available to answer any questions you may have by email, phone or skype, so contact us today!