ISLAND PEAK WAS POTENTIALLY VERY DANGEROUS THIS YEAR (2014) I am just back from my 7th summit of Island peak and I was shocked at the lack of safety on the mountain. We had 6 out of 6 participants on the summit giving us another 100% successful climb on Island peak.
I witnessed some shocking safety procedures by some local trekking companies. I spoke to a lot of people coming past us on the route to the summit, all rushing and not pacing themselves. They were coming straight from base camp. They had no ropes and no idea why they would need them. I witnessed people using Jumar’s to descend the mountain (Jumar’s are only meant for ascent), people using the already dangerous fixed ropes to pull themselves up the mountain.
THINGS YOU NEED TO MAKE A SAFE AND SUCCESS ASCENT OF ISLAND PEAK:
1). Make sure you have a fully qualified climbing guide or climbing Sherpa who can fix ropes
2). Make sure your team have their own private ropes to fix high on Island peak.
3). Make sure you have two / three night acclimatizing in Island Peak Base Camp
4). Make sure your team has a high camp set at 5,500m for your ascent on the summit
5). Make sure you have adequate training with all equipment before leaving Island peak BC
6). Make sure your team has 250m of private fixed rope for climbing safely
7). Make sure you have 1:4 ratio of guides to clients
8). Make sure you have mountaineering experience
9). Make sure you have previous altitude experience
10). Make sure you don’t use the already attached fixed lines
11). Make sure you are proficient at abseiling and know your knots.
I witnessed some serious neglect from other teams. The climbers had no idea the risks they were taking climbing on the fixed lines which have been there since 2013 and previous. Some of our team members met a Canadian climber who fell on the head wall because the fixed ropes and anchor came out of the mountain.
The anchors looked dodgy to me and climbing at 40/50 degrees angles on ropes you have no idea who fixed them is reckless, dangerous and not a safe way to climb. DON’T SIGN UP TO AN ISLAND PEAK CLIMB WITH A TEAM WHO DO NOT HAVE THE ABOVE SAFETY AND SYSTEMS IN PLACE. Island peak is not a trekking peak and requires a lot more respect from people looking to climb and stand at 20,305 feet. CLICK HERE for our upcoming trips. Climb Island peak with us and give yourself the best chance at success.